The Santa Cruz Mountains may be one of the most idyllic settings in California for making great wine. The coastal influence and high elevation vineyard sites interspersed with forest and wildlife, combined with the local mindset of working with and for the land and eschewing popular convention (you’ll often hear the term “maverick” applied) makes it a unique area that has sprouted some of the most captivating wines in the country, if not the world. While the region has a long history with organic farming and some well-established producers (Mount Eden Vineyards and Ridge come to mind), there are a growing number of exciting young winemakers in Santa Cruz making well-crafted, soulful wines that happen to be organically farmed and naturally fermented, showcasing the area’s exquisite terroir and creative local mindset. At the forefront of this new wave of producers is James Jelks, who started Florèz Wines in 2017 and has since put out a slew of great wines that always seem to walk the perfect line between precise, clean winemaking and just straight vibes.

James was born in Santa Cruz and studied at UC Davis, taking an interest in both winemaking and viticulture. Part of his studies involved spending time in Europe, particularly Burgundy, meeting local vignerons and learning the craft from a number of different perspectives. James spent a decade traveling and working with winemakers both abroad and in the U.S. before returning home and starting Florèz. He credits this time as the motivational force behind many of the wines he makes today, each of which have a singular voice within the greater chorus of the Santa Cruz wine landscape. James stopped by the shop recently to pour his latest offerings, and we were all impressed by the consistency yet varied personality of each wine. His Grenache (The Pope’s Smoke), for example, was inspired by an experience he had in Burgundy blind tasting 2005 Chateau Rayas and, thinking it might be Pinot Noir, was subsequently enthralled with the potential Grenache has to be lifted and high-toned as opposed to heavy and dark. His Edelzwicker white blend is a nod to the light and refreshing Alsatian blends you’ll find in local wine bars in Strasbourg. While different in style, none of these wines feel like an “experiment” but rather a focused and completed effort that really is a testament to James’ attention to detail and well-honed technical craft.

In addition to the outstanding lineup of current release wines from Florèz, we are excited to offer a unique opportunity to grab two limited and special bottlings from James—an incredible 2020 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay and his monumental 2021 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The Chardonnay is truly magical, showing a seamless combination of unctuous and savory depth, soaring acidity and melt-on-your-tongue texture that all feel perfectly in place. James credits the time in barrel (3.5 years under lees, topped up with no batonnage or movement) and extra 10 months in bottle for this delicate balance, saying, aptly, “You can’t cheat time.” The Cabernet Sauvignon is an old-school throwback style Cali Cab, with outstanding energy and vivacity while still showing full phenolic ripeness and firm structure. This wine could age another ten years easily, although it’s quite enjoyable now with a decant and the right cut of meat. While each of the Florez wines might have its own individual time and place, all of them are delicious in their own right and showcase both James’ individual style and the unique personality of Santa Cruz. -Jeff DiLorenzo

Please note the 2020 Chardonnay and 2021 Cabernet will be arriving mid-September, all other wines arrive next week.