Agrapart 2012 Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Experience

Agrapart NV Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut Complantée b16

This wine is based on the three classic Champagne varieties with the addition of Arbanne, Pinot Blanc, and Petit Meslier. The vines are planted in the "La Fosse" vineyard, the same vineyard that gives us the fabulous cuvée Vénus. The idea behind this wine is to see if terroir trumps variety, the ancient varieties sort of cancelling each other out to reveal greater expression of minerality. The wine is outstanding with fennel and red fruit notes on the nose, very fine mousse, and a beautiful, chalky finish. In general, these ancient varieties can yield a rustic Champagne, but, as we'd expect from Agrapart, this wine is the soul of refinement. (dosage: 5 grams) -Sophie Barrett

Claude Corbon NV Champagne Blanc de Blanc

From their small Domaine in Avize the Corbon family fashions resolutely old school expressions of Champagne. Low yields, long elevage, and blocked malolactic fermentation, they are bright, precise, taut, and nervy. This non-vintage blanc de blancs is no exception: aromas of lemon rind, brioche, give way to hints of apple blossom, and gunflint; the nervy and punchy palate offers notes of quinine, green tea and citrus zest with a good core of chalky minerality on a admirably long finish. This is lovely now, though experience with the Cobon family's wines makes me think this will gain in complexity and  sophistication with time in the bottle. Lovely with a plate of oysters better still with lobster rolls. John McIlwain

Contrées (Horiot, Lamoureaux) 2009 Riceys Terroirs 4 pack

Les Contrees is a fascinating study of terroir within the Riceys. Four separate lieux-dits harvested at nearly the same time, vinified the same way and disgorged within days of each other. The expressiveness of each terrior makes this a must for Champagne obsessives. Yes, Virginia, there is terroir in Champagne!

Déhu, Benoît NV Champagne Brut Nature La Rue des Noyers b13

For those who dismiss the minerality and terroir specificity of Pinot Meunier in the Vallée de la Marne, Benoit Déhu's La Rue des Noyers makes a compelling case for the grape's expressiveness. From a 1.7 hectare plot of biodynamically farmed vines in the the eponymous lieu-dit in Fossoy, Benoit produces a Champagne of great suppleness and verve. The grapes are fermented in oak with native yeasts, aged under cork, and is bottled without dosage. The nose is floral and redolent of red fruits, cherry blossom, and sea spray. The palate while broad and expansive and featuring layers of orchard fruit and citrus peel flavors gives way to a frank earthiness and salty mineral character in the long, lifted, lilting finish. John McIlwain

Diebolt Vallois 2008 Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion

If you'd like to explore the terroirs and character of the Côte des Blancs, Diebolt-Vallois is a good place to start. Jacques Diebolt started the domaine with his wife in 1960 and has a collection of well-situated plots in Cramant,  Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cuis and Epernay, per writer Peter Liem, From these holdings he  and his son and daughter fashion classically styled Champagnes. The crown jewel is the Fleur de Passion, a Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from a selection of old vine plots in Cramant (Pimonts, Buzons, Goutte d’Or, Rouillées, Fourches and Gros Monts per champagneguide.net). These selections are vinified and aged in used oak barrels without malolactic fermentation, and bottled unfiltered and unfined. The resulting wines are taut, nervy, towering expressions of Cramant terroir. Uncompromising in its youth, Fleur de Passion is structured, chiseled, and profoundly chalky. With time in the bottle, it reals a suave texture, deep minerality and nuanced pure fruit. The 2008 only hints at its potential, with whiffs of lemon blossom, and white apricot and chalk, the palate is densely mineral and coiled, while refined. This is a Champagne that needs quite a few years in the bottle to reveal its breed, but should dazzle in a decade and beyond. John McIlwain

Filaine (Fabrice Gass) NV Damery Cuvée Speciale Base 15

Filaine is one of our favorite Champagne houses.  And the singular Fabrice Gass is one of our favorite Champagne characters. His wines  are made up of  Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier from the south-facing village of Damery on the slope of the Grand Vallée de la Marne. The wines are made in the manner of 100 years ago. Fabrice farms the without chemicals, ferments in wood, and due to the age of his barrels, avoids malolactic fermentation.  This disgorgement is based on the 2015 vintage and balances nicely the classic richness Damery and ripeness of the vintage with undertones of minerality.  Aromatically the wines offer up aromas of baked apple, spices, and soil notes. On the palate flavors of ripe red fruit and a pervasive sense of chalkiness vie with with a creamy texture on the broad, rich finish. This is a perfect wine for the holiday table with its balance of generous fruit and earthy structure. John McIlwain

Gerbais, Pierre NV 14b Champagne Extra-Brut Grain des Celles 3g/l

Laval, Georges 2012 Champagne Cumières Premier Cru Les Longues Violes

Laval, Georges 2014 Champagne Cumières Premier Cru Les Chênes

Marie-Courtin 2013 Champagne Allégeance Extra Brut Rosé Sans SO2

Marie-Courtin 2014 Champagne Eloquence Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

Marie-Courtin 2014 Champagne Extra-Brut Concordance Sans Soufre

Marie-Courtin 2015 Champagne Extra Brut Présence Sans SO2

Moussé 2013 Champagne Brut Premier Cru Special Club

Pouillon, R 2010 Champagne 1er Cru Brut Nature Les Blanchiens

From an organically farmed, single-vineyard parcel at the top of the slope on the western side of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. 50% Pinot Noir  and 50% Chardonnay fermented in used barrels. Disgorged in Spring 2017, zero dosage. Though from a premier cru village rather than its grand cru neighbor, Aÿ, the 2010 Les Blanchiens is no less an articulate expression of the calcareous clay soils that make up its terroir. The nose offers toasty brioche, Meyer lemon peel, lemon blossom and sea spray aromas. The palate shows punchy vibrant fruit t on the attack, with an incisive minerality dominating a rich and complex mid-palate. This is manifested by pungent soil notes, which give way to distinctly savory, sapid, and powerful finish. Though bottled without dosage, this is by no means austere. (Disgorged Spring 2017) John McIlwain

Pouillon, R NV Champagne 1er Cru Brut Solera (Autumn 2016)

Ruppert-Leroy 2015 Champagne Brut Nature Pinot Noir "Papillon"

From a parcel of massale-selected Pinot Noir vines within the  Fosse Grely vineyard in Essoyes.

Suenen 2014Base Champagne Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut

Aurelien Suenen is one of the bright young stars of the Côte des Blancs, whose Champagnes seem to improve with every new release. His 2014 based Oiry Blanc de Blancs is a beauty. Wines from the village are typically sold under the Cramant designation (we haven't been able to find another Champagne with this single village designation, as yet), so this is a fine opportunity to taste Oiry's distinctive, chalky terroir. Aurelien's parcels contain some very old Chardonnay vines which make for some pungently mineral, stony wines. The vins clairs are fermented partially in barrel, spend nine months on the lees, and are bottled with 1 g/l dosage. The 2014 is brisk, briny, and fresh on the nose with aromas of yuzu, Meyer lemon, quinine, and chalk dominating. The palate is chiseled, taut and very dry with racy acidity and an energetic driving finish. Suenen continues to grow with each vintage and this new line up of village designated Champagnes are particularly exciting. The 2014 will make a fine aperitif and shiny brightly with crudo or sashimi.  John McIlwain 

Suenen 2015 Base Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut

Suenen 2015 Base Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs 1.5L

Suenen 2015 Base Champagne Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 1.5L

Agrapart 2011 Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs L'Avizoise

Agrapart 2011 Champagne Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Venus