Articles

2/22/19 - The winter light in the Loire is quite magnificent, in a low key way. A grayish pearly sheen that covers the gently undulating landscape, only occasionally pierced by soft sunlight. There is something grand in the understated nature of this landscape, something quietly medieval. It was my first time visiting this corner of France, and after years of drinking the wines, I...

2/21/19 - Even for Barolo, Oddero’s are some of the most uncompromisingly old-fashioned wines we know, with brooding structure that demands many years in the cellar. For example, two recent tastings of Oddero 1989 Barolo Vigna Rionda showed that wine to be just entering early maturity. Thus I expected the 1995 Barolo to be interesting to taste, but it turns out to be a...

2/18/19 - In introductory wine classes it is common to hear the assertion that Oregon Pinot Noir is darker, denser, and earthier than Pinot Noir from California. The wines of Kelley Fox go against this grain by being extraordinarily light, ethereal, with a limpid, crystalline structure and incredible, pinpoint precision. Kelley is one of the most conscientious practitioners of her craft anywhere in the...

2/16/19 - It's sort of a truism in the wine trade that hyped vintages sell; another truism (especially in Burgundy) is that it's always grower over vintage. So what to make of the ballyhooed 2015 vintage in the Côte d'Or? After a pair of difficult years maked by poor flowering and hail, 2015 was lauded by some as the vintage of the century even...

2/13/19 - When people think of Pinot Blanc, I assume Alsace comes to their minds or if one is thinking more historically, perhaps Burgundy and Champagne. And while there are many delicious wines made from or including Pinot Blanc from these regions of France, we are excited to turn your thoughts further east, to Germany! Known as Weissburgunder (or Weisser Burgunder), the variety has gained in...

2/12/19 - Véronique and Philippe Grenier at Domaine des Amphores are located on the hillsides of Chavanay, just south of Condrieu, where they produce Saint-Joseph red and white, a lovely Condrieu and delicious Vins de Pays that are sensational values. Certified organic since their beginning in 1992, and since 2016 all the wines are Demeter certified for biodynamic farming as well. During our recent...

2/7/19 - In South Australia, amidst the record-breaking heat and monolithic rows of commercial-zeal, there is a new pulse in one of the world's most maligned wine regions. In modest sheds built on parched hills, some of Australia's magic is reemerging. It's not the flashy, ambitious sort of the early aughts; it's a discreet sea-change that's gaining momentum despite the humble deflections of those...

2/6/19 - It’s no secret that much of the oxygen in wine discourse is consumed by the classic, the important, and the fashionable. And while much ink is spilled discussing the classic wine regions and noble grapes (not to mention, rediscovered viticultural regions and methods), there hardly seems to be any room for more humble grapes and appellations. This brings to mind Eric Asimov's...

1/25/19 - Today we would like to showcase two of our favorite producers, one a legend, the other a young maverick, from one of the most interesting areas in California: the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Santa Cruz Mountains have an odd identity. The region is not remote, being an hour's drive south of San Francisco, nor is it considered undiscovered, or a backwater; some...

1/18/19 - I met Johannes Zillinger during a dinner held at Michael Gindl's home in Hohenruppersdorf; amongst a jovial group of friends and winemakers lots of bottles were opened and enjoyed. His wines made an impression then, and a few days later at Vie Vinum in Vienna I was able to taste through the line-up. As we struggled to talk above the din of the wine...

1/17/19 - California's wine culture seems to be adapting at a mercurial rate of change. With the landscape constantly being restructured and the ideals always changing it is rare to find a winemaker that really encapsulates the spirit of now in California. We believe that in Martha Stoumen we have found this current archetype, and in describing her methods and her wines we can...

1/10/19 - In Meursault, a village positively overflowing with excellent growers, Domiane Pierre Morey somehow manages to remain a hidden gem. And while Coche, Lafon, and Roulot manage to command the lion's share of attention, Pierre and his talented daughter Anne seem to avoid the limelight. Founded in 1971—though the Moreys are said to have arrived in the village in 1793—Domaine Pierre Morey was...

12/28/18 - As everyone begins to rouse themselves from the post-holiday lull, we thought we would shine a light on Division Wine Co.. one of our favorite producers doing exciting stuff out in Oregon. Division is an urban winery in Portland, Oregon making incredible wines, predominantly sourced from the Willamette Valley, that are joyous and exciting expressions of this great winemaking region. Started in...

12/20/18 - Jamet is a household name, but Champet remains a bit of a secret. This may be, in part, because the wines aren’t Parkerian, as they lack the requisite gobs and toasty toast*. The conventional line is that little or nothing has changed at Champet - apparently much is as it was when Emile Champet first bottled his Côte Rôtie in 1967. This...

12/15/18 - Earlier this year, Amanda and I had the great joy of sharing a day with Stephane Tissot in the Jura. As soon as we arrived, Stephane greeted us with the energy of a highschool kid on 2 cans of Red Bull. Amanda: Oui je parle un peu Francais, mais si c'est possible de parler doucement - Stephane: No. Sorry. If you like...