Northern Rhône Report: The Extraordinary Texier "Le Clau" plus New Arrivals from Domaine des Amphores and Domaine Rousset!
8/23/22 -
One doesn't think of the Northern Rhône as a source for great values, but the wines we feature from Domaine Barou, Domaine des Amphores and Domaine Rousset offer sensational quality at everyday-drinking prices. These are authentic, traditional wines from great terroir and great farming which fully express the magic of the Northern Rhone!
The 2020 Texier "Le Clau" is one of the most extraordinary and unique Northern Rhone wines we have ever tasted. Happily, the importer has a few more cases and a few magnums of the 2017 still available. Stop lusting over old bottles of Gentaz-Dervieux and put some "Le Clau" in your cellar!
Domaine des Amphores, Chavanay (Condrieu, Saint-Joseph)
The Domaine des Amphores Condriueu is 100% massale-selection Viognier from 0.5 hectare on poor granite-based soils at 250 metres on La Côte at Chavanay. The 2021 La Côte has a pale yellow gold robe. The nose offers a subtle and intriguing mélange of toasted nuts, salted pineapple, chestnut honey, pear, stone and a hint of spice. The palate shades savory with a granitic spine and roasted peach, and green almond flavors on a sleek and mineral palate. There’s a pleasing phenolic, stony bitterness and freshness closing out the finish, with teriffic length. This is a less exotic and exuberant expression, but perfect for the table—think skate with brown butter, halibut or roasted chicken with fricasséed morels! The three reds on offer today show the ripeness, balance and terroir expression of the excellent 2020 vintage, from the bright and floral "Sphé-érique" to the deep and more structured cuvée "Les Mésanges." Syrah lovers should try all three!
Domaine Rousset, Erome (Crôzes-Hermitage)
Stéphane Rousset's family goes back eleven generations in Erome - his great uncle was the legendary Raymond Roure, from whom the Roussets purchased the "Picaudières" vineyard in Gervans. The Rousset's vineyards are all on hillsides with some limestone and "loess" soils mixed in with the predominant granite, giving wines that are more profound and complex than most modern examples of Crôzes-Hermitage. Sadly, there were no 2020 Crôzes reds available as the Rousset's wines sell out quickly to their local clients and restaurants, but we're happy to offer their very serious 2020 Saint-Joseph Rouge (from "Les Rivoires" in Tournon - Domaine Pierre Gonon has vines there as well), and their 2021 Crôzes-Hermitage Blanc, a delicious blend of Roussanne and Marsanne that is a fabulous value...
Eric Texier "Le Clau" Ouvèze Valley
"From a handful of rows in our 0.5 ha of a very particular strain of Serine. Planted in the 1930’s in the Masson parcel of Saint-Julien en-Saint-Alban in the lieu-dit Le Clau. They present unique ampelographic qualities, very different from the Serines we find in Brézème or other Northern vineyards, notably very low alcoholic degrees when in full maturity. All replacements here have been done through marcottage, without the introduction of any clones. We are still not sure of their exact nature, and certain ampelography experts believe it may not even be Syrah. It may actually be Bravade or Exbrayat. We've decided to vinify these separately and the result is unique. We’ve discovered a very particular personality, and it’s an immense pleasure to share this with you. Whole-cluster, with a light treading for 20% of the grapes. 6-8 days of maceration with an immersed cap, no extraction. Native yeasts. Aged 18 months in demi-muids. No filtration or fining. No sulfur was added at any point during vinification, aging or bottling." - Éric Texier
