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The Umami of Champagne
8/21/15 - Champagne's stylistic range is born, in part, from an appellation with nearly 34,000 hectares under vine and from the potential to blend many of those myriad terroirs. However, an important part of the breadth and the particularities of these wines comes from a pivotal step in the Méthode Champenoise : long lees aging. The same yeast cells that create the limelight bubbles... -
Beautiful, Affordable Burgundies from Jean-Claude Rateau and Jane et Sylvain!
8/16/15 - (Jean-Claude Rateau in the Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune -- Photos by Eben Lillie) New shipments of beautiful, old-fashioned Burgundies have just arrived from Jean-Claude Rateau in Beaune, and Jane et Sylvain in Gevrey-Chambertin. These two estates practice organic or biodynamic farming, ferment with wild yeasts and age their wines in minimal or zero new oak thus preserving the aromatic complexity and saline mineral flavors... -
Rare Whisky
8/14/15 - In one of our recent deliveries of vintage Italian wines, we received an extremely rare collection of old whisky. In the current market for Scotch and Bourbon it’s hard to overstate how incredibly difficult it is to track down vintage spirits. We’ve watched old stand-by values rocket to prices that demand a special occasion. The global demand for whisky has depleted many... -
The Beautiful 2014s from Alain Coudert at Clos de la Roilette!
8/13/15 - Since taking over the estate from his father Fernand in 1991, Alain Coudert has become one of the most consistent and respected producers in Beaujolais. Alain was a reluctant vigneron, returning to aid the family after his brother had a serous accident in 1979. During our early visits to the estate, the modest Alain would defer to his father who would... -
Natural Wines with Christophe Foucher of La Lunotte
8/11/15 - Christophe Foucher makes brilliant natural wines on his 5 hectare estate in Couffy, on the southern bank of the Cher River, near St. Aignan, just a short distance from our friends at Clos Roche Blanche. Christophe grows Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau, Cabernet Franc, Cot and Gamay, farmed with strict organic methods and vinified without sulfites or other additives. He will stop by... -
The Webers of Falkenstein
8/7/15 - (A mid-slope view of the Euchariusberg vineyard) To visit the Webers of Hofgut Falkenstein is to know that practiced fingers still dapple embossed ribbons in measured sequence for no more considered reasons than pride of craft and tradition. To know that many generations of a single family continue to care for historic Saar vineyards is a reassuring constant in a diminishing... -
The Supernaturals (Part One) Featuring Clos des Vignes du Maynes "Cuvee 910!
7/28/15 - (Clos des Vignes du Maynes in winter) Recent arrivals to Chambers Street have included some of the most sought-after natural wines of France (or "wines of nature" as Didier Barrouillet would say) - we've selected some of our favorites for this email and Racines NY will feature them by-the-glass - one night only - just up the road at 94 Chambers Street... -
2014 Pépière Clos des Briords; 2014s from François Pinon!
7/26/15 - (Marc Olivier and François Pinon) The release of a new vintage of Domaine de la Pépière's Muscadet Clos des Briords is always a cause for rejoicing, especially when nature has blessed the Loire Valley with an excellent vintage, both in quality and quantity! So, no allocations, for now anyway, and a superb wine with a bit more ripeness than some... -
Mosel Riesling Moonrakers
7/24/15 - (The Enkircher Ellergrub) The highest rigged sail on the wind ships of the 19th century would be called the moonrakers or the hopes-in-heaven. They provided the ships that raised them with that pivotal extra bit of speed and lightness. The heyday of those sailing ships long passed, who stands watch over that highest sail, over the sail that seemed closer to heaven... -
More 2013s from Colin-Morey
7/20/15 - There's something admirable about winemakers whose wines seem to transcend vintage. One such producer is Pierre Yves Colin-Morey. Considered a rising star over the last decade, Pierre Yves Colin worked at his family’s winery until 2005 while starting his own label. His wines have since achieved must-buy status among Burgundy lovers. Colin-Morey supplements the estate-grown fruit with top-flight purchased grapes, making them... -
Champagne's Subregions
7/17/15 - ("Language is like a bridge and over this bridge of language you walk in security, but beyond that lies another world . . ." -Robert Musil) Every wine grower works within the potentialities afforded them by nature, but each grower also has a series of choices that will yield a particular vinous reality from among those possible outcomes. The grape bud is... -
A Cure for the Summertime Blues
6/30/15 - (Nothing says summertime like gin.) Gin is the ultimate summer spirit. Whether sipped neat, on the rocks, or mixed into your favorite cocktail, it never fails to refresh the soul (ever heard of a Corpse Reviver #2*?) and palate. Now more than ever, there is a vast array of different styles of gin available to us and each of them is incredibly... -
Stagård - Charm and Beauty in the Kremstal
6/29/15 - (The vines of the Steiner Schreck, perched above the city of Krems on the Danube.) On the recommendation of one of my favorite German winemakers, Gernot Kollmann of Immich-Batterieberg, I paid a visit to Dominique and Urban Stagård in Lower Austria this April. I was charmed. They have about 12 hectares in Kremstal that they farm organically, picturesque terraces overlooking the Danube... -
Seeing Green in Saint Romain: Henri et Gilles Buisson
6/27/15 - (Bottling their wines since 1947 and farming organically since the 1970s, Henri et Gilles Buisson represents the new old school.) When you drive south from Beaune, the famous red wine vineyards of Pommard and Volnay stretch out on the slope to your right, while to the left you’ll find famed white wine communes of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Puligny-Montrachet -- it’s quite a... -
Summer Of Swabia
6/24/15 - (Jochen Beurer) It's fun to drink serious wines from a winemaking region most Americans have never heard of and Germans simply scoff at. The area is Swabia--an area dear to our hearts and inspiring all because of two growers who have taken it upon themselves to take advantage of the hillside vineyards outside of Stuttgart. While most of their neighbors scorch the...