Articles

[Of all the bright young growers in Champagne, perhaps one of the most compelling is Aurelien Suenen of Cramant] There's a great deal to admire in the Champagnes and ethic of Aurelien Suenen. His wines combine beautiful fruit with a frank minerality in a graceful way. This results from conscientious farming (Suenen has been in transition to organic certification since 2009) and deft work...

11/5/2019 Map from "Barolo MGA Vol. 1" by Alessandro Masnaghetti “The vineyards of Brunate are divided by the administrative boundary which separates the townships of Barolo and La Morra. A border which has no particular effect from the viticultural and oenological point of view, given that the MGA [ie: the vineyard of Brunate] extends over one sole slope characterized by an exposure which is...

10/14/2019 Cellar at Domaine Stéphane Magnien For many years we have been working with Domaine Stéphane Magnien (not to be confused with Michel or Frédéric), a small domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis that makes superb, subtle, and old-fashioned wines of terroir from their 4.5 hectares. The domain is proud to say that for four generations they have not used herbicides, using plowing by horse and tractor...

There’s a vinicultural revival going on across the sprawling Douro Valley. Younger winemakers are taking charge of their families’ estates or bringing their own independent projects to fruition. A new generation is making wine unlike the Portuguese table wine we’ve come to know, particularly in the Douro Valley, the oldest demarcated appellation in Western Europe. Eponymous with Port wine, the Douro Valley has been...

[Luigi Tecce pouring his wines. (photo from the PortoVino website)] From John Gilman's View from the Cellar #63: "Luigi Tecce is clearly amongst the very finest, if not the finest, winemakers in Taurasi today and he will be a superstar in the very near future...the Bruno Giacosa of the region." I've heard similar superlatives from many people I respect in the industry, including the...

2/14/2019 - I've never much understood the concept of "smoothness". The things I put in my mouth for pleasure, I want them to be exciting, expressive and soulful. I'm not necessarily always looking for higher proof, but I am always looking for an experience. In this regard, I am most fortunate to have Jamaican rum in my life, particularly the amazing juice coming from Hampden...

While it is unlike us to associate certain wines with certain seasons, the chill of winter simply requires a degree of decadence that I can only find in the savory and sumptuous white wine from the Jura. Perhaps I am biased, but when the cold wind is at one's cheeks, who can deny the revitalizing effects of a hearty sous-voile? Further, few vignerons craft...

11/7/18 - The first time I met Benoit Courault, my hair was wild and desheveled and someone mistook me for him at a wine fair in France. We both had a laugh and I proceeded to taste and chat with him about his wines, vineyards, and philosophy. This was around the same time that I was discovering how remarkable Chenin Blanc on Schiste (schist terroir) can...

Early this year, at the tail end of a trip visiting vineyards and attending wine tastings in France, I took two days to visit Portugal. I had already heard many great things about Lisbon, and had always been fascinated and intrigued by the wines of a tiny region called Colares, so I headed to Lisbon and then drove west through the enchanting castle town...

9/17/2018 Rubén Díaz - courtesy of Sobremesa Website Rubén Díaz owns some of the best vineyards in the Gredos region, a mountain range west of Madrid. Most of his vineyards are located in the municipality of Cebreros, but he also owns a vineyard located in the remote part of the Gredos, called San Bartolomé de Pinares. Using the local grapes and winemaking traditions, Rubén has...

[Bruno Schueller in the cellar and a caricature of Jean Ginglinger (with anatomically correct nose!) Photos: Amanda Bowman] Bruno Schueller and Jean Ginglinger are cousins, and coincidentally also two of the most talented natural wine producers in Alsace. It's been a long time coming, but we've finally been able to put together an offering of their wines, albeit in limited quantity. Here you'll find...

[The Gredos Mountain - Daniel Ramos Vineyards - courtesy of Daniel Ramos Website] After discovering the potential of the various terroirs of the Gredos mountains (near Madrid, and home to one of the highest peaks of mainland Spain), Daniel Ramos and his wife Pepi established themselves in the town of El Tiemblo. Daniel Ramos has been making wines there since 2010, and currently owns about...

[Gobelet-trained vines close to the winery at Clos Fantine (photo: A.Bowman)] Clos Fantine is a small family winery that sits on breezy, sloping hills behind the commune of Cabrerolles in the Faugères AOC. The long road that winds up to the front door is lined with brightly colored wildflowers sprouting between slabs of exposed schist, and 9 hectares of gnarly vines and fruit trees....

Niçoise salad is a classic dish in France and all around the word. Most French eat this salad during the summer with a glass of wine, relaxing on their patio or terrace. It is a salad that reflects the flavors of the South of France: warmth and generous. Recipes vary among families and localities, and there are many debates as to which ingredients should...

3/21/2018 Bernard Baudry in his cellars in January 2018 I mostly eat a vegetarian diet, but I occasionally long for a nice steak or beef dish. Last week, I satisfied my cravings by making a steak tartare à la Française. There are many recipes for steak tartare, from traditional to exotic, with various choices of condiments and spices. However, being born and raised in...