Breath-Taking Wines from Paulo Bea
6/21/10 -
The Bea fattoria creates some of the world’s most singular and impressive wines. They are located in the Montefalco region of Umbria where there is a dichotomy between growers working in a forward international style, and those who concentrate on exposing the rustic beauty of Sagrantino and other native varieties. The Bea wines fall decisively in the second camp. These wines are crafted on a working farm that also generates fruits, vegetables, and livestock, and takes the concept of a small artisanal farm to the highest degree. Hand harvesting is a must, and the work in the vineyard is organic. After the grapes are harvested they are allowed an extended time for cuvaison and fermentation – only indigenous yeasts are used. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration, and held back in bottle for sometime before release.
The Sagrantino influenced red wines from Bea are perhaps the pinnacle of cultivation of the variety. Value-seekers should take note that in 2006 the Montefalco Rosso was not awarded its DOC, and is therefore sold as “Rosso Umbria” Indicazione Geografica Tipicia. The blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Sagrantino is truly a steal at $28.99. We are also delighted to offer two vintages of the Montefalco Sagrantino Secco from the Pagliaro vineyard. Both vintages are full of burly red fruits and an earthy minerality. I find the 2004 to have a profound smokiness and complexity that offers an incredible drinking experience at this juncture, and will surely evolve in notable ways. The 2005 in contrast tastes young and fruity, and not yet willing to yield its full character. Delicious now, but will truly be a wine to watch mature and reveal more of its charms.
Bea’s white wines may be considered more idiosyncratic then the reds and will truly inspire lengthy conversations among oenophiles. The white wines are treated like reds with an extended maceration that leaves a tannic quality and full bodied mouth feel. These wines have the orange tint indicative of this procedure. From Bea’s vineyard there are two different white wines available. The first is a blend of several native and French varieties, and is named Santa Chiara. I found this wine to be lovely with a smoky tour-de-force of melon flavors. The second white is produced exclusively of very old Trebbiano and labeled “Arboreus.” In continuing the vein of unique wine-making practices, a small portion of the grapes are allowed to dry in a Passito style, and are then fermented dry. The result is a richness and intensity of flavor that will not be easily forgotten. All of the wines are truly beautiful, and serious wine buffs owe it to themselves to try them.
