9/21/26 - 

Today we are shining a light on a series of hills called the Colli Tortonesi in southeast Piemonte where the region meets Liguria and Lombardia. This area is most well-known for Timorasso but is also the native home of Barbera. Timorasso is having a moment of popularity now, but its history stretches back to the 14th century. We must give credit to our growers on offer today, Walter Massa, Oltretorrente, and Cascina Penna-Currado, because Timorasso is very finicky to grow. The individual berries mature at different rates, skins are thin, and grapes easily fall of the vine- but the labor of love produces divine honey-scented and mineral laced whites with the aging potential of a fine Riesling or Chenin Blanc. If I am drinking a white from Piemonte, it's likely a native grape like Timorasso, Arneis, Erbaluce or Favorita. These varietals feel the most soulful in the glass and pair effortlessly with traditional foods.

An offer about the Colli Tortonesi may feel niche at first glance, but there is actually a great diversity of vintages, styles, and grapes to explore today. Our normal discounting structure applies (10% off 12 bottles or more), but we did include some discounted variety packs in the collection worth your attention!

Walter Massa

Walter is synonymous with his native Colli Tortonesi with his estate sitting in the hilltop town of Monleale. Walter says Barbera is specifically native to Monleale, and he takes seriously his responsibility to represent the ageability of the grape. Today we are offering many back vintages of Barbera as well as current releases. Barbera is one of my favorite grapes because when young, they’re crunchy with purple fruit and scented with violets and leaves. When Barbera is aged, it develops balsamic and woodsy notes with deeper, concentrated fruit. Click into the collection to see 2011, 2013, 2018, & 2019 Monleale, 2013 Pertichetta Croatina, and 2024 Terra Rosso. 

Walter is widely credited with reviving Timorasso long before it was fashionable. He says that Timorasso was nearly extinguished by phylloxera, the two world wars, and replanting of more lucrative grapes like Cortese (for Gavi). Walter simply doesn’t like Cortese, so in the early 2000’s he vinified 1.5 hectares of Timorasso and found his life's mission. Now there are about 600 hectares of Timorasso and more plantings every year as winemakers follow in his footsteps. Walter coaxes the best out of the grape with lees aging, periodic battonage and no use of oak. He is also very committed to stelvin closures, citing more consistent and predictable aging. The aged reds are under cork.

Today we welcome three single vineyard Timorasso to our shelves:

2023 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Montecitorio - Planted in 2006, east facing with bright white chalky calcareous marl. White floral, nectarines, almonds, and stony minerality.
2023 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Sterpi - Planted in 1996, west facing with similar white chalky calcareous marl as Montecitorio but with large stones in the vineyard. More savory aromatics, serious, taut, and pithy with more verticality.
2023 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Costa del Vento - Planted in 1990 (Walter's first vines planted!), south facing with pure clay soils. The combination of dense soils and southern exposure make this the fullest bodied Timorasso in the lineup with hazelnut, red cherries, and pine sap. 

Cascina Penna-Currado 2024 Timorasso Derthona

Jamie Wolff briefly un-retired to sing this bottle's praises after enjoying it recently at a restaurant. Cascina Penna-Currado is the new project from the dynamic duo who led Vietti for 35 years, Elena Penna and Luca Currado Vietti. In 2023 they split off to breathe life into this new project focusing on smaller quantities and cooler north facing plots. This new family venture will be one to watch for years to come in the Langhe.

The family makes fantastic wines mostly in Monforte, but the focus today is their sole white wine, a Timorasso from 2.5 hectares in the Colli Tortonesi. Interestingly, their Timorasso sees a submerged cap fermentation (an unusual practice for Timorasso that Elena became keen on after visiting with a grower in Liguria). This lends depth and texture without oxidation, while aging in stainless steel, Clayver amphora, and a touch of acacia wood enhances its mineral, saline character.

Jamie said it was one of the very best Timorasso that he's had had in 15 years of tasting - beautifully balanced, crisp, stony and irresistible. We were thrilled to get our hands on enough bottles to present to you all today.

Oltretorrente means 'outside the stream of life'

Oltretorrente was founded in 2010 by two married agronomists, Chiara Penati and Michele Conoscente. Their deep knowledge of sustainable farming practices and experience working all around the boot makes their choice to settle in the Colli Tortonesi a particularly special one. Now they have 9 hectares of rescued old vines and newer plantings to call their own of mostly Timorasso and Barbera, as well as Favorita, Cortese, Dolcetto & Croatina. Chiara and Michele were early champions of Timorasso which has grown in popularity, and subsequently hectarage, in the last 15 years. Organics and biodynamics are practiced in the fields.

Today we have two single varietal wines, 2024 Timorasso Colli Tortonesi and 2022 Barbera Superiore Colli Tortonesi as well as two blends, Oltretorrente 2025 Vino Bianco and 2024 Rosso Colli Tortonesi. Cheers to Chiara & Michele, as well as Bowler Wines (their NY importer), for bringing soulful and accessible wines to our tables in the US. 

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If some of these grapes are new to you- that's kind of the point. Growers like Walter Massa, Oltretorrente, and Penna-Currado are maintaining biodiversity and preserving ancient methods. As the world of wine moves towards greater mechanization and technology, I savor wines like these that pull me back in time.

-Marisa Licandro

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