Rossignol-Fevrier 2020 and 2021: A Study in Whole Cluster vs. Destemmed
1/20/2025
[Frederic Rossignol in the Vineyard (Photo: Bertrand's Wines)]
I oftentimes find that winemaking can draw parallels to cooking, and not only because we often eat and drink wine together. A chef looks at their ingredients and decides what cooking method would be the best way to prepare a specific item the same way a vigneron sees their grapes from a vintage and decides what style of wine they want to make. How they will press the grapes, the vessel for fermentation and ageing, how long to age, the options go on and on.
A common discussion of winemaking method is destemmed vs. whole cluster, but what does that really mean for the resulting wine? Whole cluster refers to when a winemaker includes whole bunches of grapes including their stems during fermentation. This can add complexity to the final product with spicy, herbal flavors and add to tannin structure. This isn’t necessarily an all or nothing decision as you can use a percentage of whole-cluster alongside destemmed grapes. This decision often depends on how ripe the stems can get during the growing season.
For Frederic Rossignol of Domaine Rossignol-Fevrier the change in methods from 2020 to 2021 showcase two different vintages with switch from 75% whole cluster (2020) to 100% destemmed (2021). Both wines were aged 10-15 months in 10% new wood so aside from the change in vintage itself, the true the only other variable is the use of stems.
In comparison the 2020 has riper fruit, and a lot more structure. It is perfumed with baking spice and slightly dried red florals. While the 2021 has slightly tarter fruit with great elegance and a spike of youth. It is fresh and ready!
[Harvest at Domaine Rossignol-Fevrier (Photo: Bertrand's Wine)]
Domaine Rossignol-Fevrier has been estate-bottling wines since 1920. Today Frederic Rossignol represents the 5th generation working the family vineyards and has taken the Domaine to a whole new level. He made the change to biodynamic farming on all 7.5 hectares of vines spread across Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, and Meursault. There is a strong commitment to organic and biodynamic farming with Demeter certification since 2009. Frederic says how “one must work in balance with what nature gives us each vintage… letting each lieu-dit express its unique character is each vintage is the true pleasure of my work.” Not only is Frederic passionate about biodynamic farming, he also believes in the beauty of his older vines with all vines less than 45 years old being declassified to his Bourgogne Rouge.
While I am excited to introduce Frederic’s wines to Chambers Street Wines today, I think this is an exciting chance to see what whole cluster fermentations does to a wine from one vintage to the next with no other outside changes aside from the vintage itself. To provide that experience, we are offering $15 off on a 2-pack of the 2020 and 2021 vintages! Buy one or stock up on both, either way you will have some incredible old vine Volnay that comes at a fairly good price for this village too!
-Hanna Krilov
