Drink More Campania! Joaquin, Setaro & Picariello
8/12/26 -
This Spring we did an offer called 'Drink More Fiano' where the singular, unique, and age-defying Fiano di Avellino from Joaquin were introduced. After the success of that offer, it became clear that more of the lineup should be highlighted, including a breezy white blend from the island of Capri, a 2015 Taurasi, a baby Taurasi called I Viaggiatori, and the stunning Fianos that started our admiration for this small winery. Today we also introduce Casa Setaro's drinkable yet complex wines from the southern slopes of Mount Vesuvius. Ciro Picariello has a bit more experience on the Chambers Street shelves, and the new 2025 vintages are balanced, elegant and aromatic. For a refresher on Picariello as well as a deeper dive into Joaquin and Setaro, continue reading below.

Joaquin's High Elevation Gnarly Vines
Raffaele, like many natural winemakers, chose a path less traveled. He could have taken over the large-scale family operation, but had a vision for acquiring old parcels and working in intentionally small quantities. Most of his vines are located around Lapio, one of the best zones in Avellino for its high elevation, cool microclimate, and dramatic temperature swings between day and night. The wines all have a throughline of tension and complexity, the push and pull of perfectly ripe grapes balanced by cooling acidity. He was also fortunate to purchase an old & ungrafted plot of Greco, Falanghina, and Biancolella on the island of Capri to make his 2025 dall'Isola Campania Bianco. The grapes are co-fermented with a short stint on the skins (not imparting any color) followed by 6 months on the lees. All stainless steel allows the pure limestone soils on the island to take a front seat in framing the wine. It feels sea-kissed and breezy with ozone notes, river stones, pear, lemon, and finishing with umami and sea salt. While this wine is quite different from Raffaele's mainland Fiano, there is a similar phenomenon of feeling textured yet weightless at the same time. For Fiano, we have a restock of both 2019 Vino della Stella Fiano d'Avellino and 2018 Piante a Lapio Campania Fiano, plus the new vintage of 2022 Vino della Stella Fiano d'Avellino!
While I was first introduced to Joaquin by way of his white wines, a recent chance to taste Aglianico impressed just as much. 2015 Della Societa Taurasi Riserva is only made in excellent growing seasons from 150-200 year old giant, gnarled, own rootstock vines in the cooler south side of Taurasi (photo above). Three years in old oak and acacia casks with significant bottle aging. Incredibly earthy, forest floor, cool herbs, and wild blueberry with a notable lift and freshness compared to other Taurasi. If this category is new to you, start with the even fresher 2021 I Viaggiatori Campania Aglianico, made from the same old vines, just released younger. Dried blueberries, prune, cocoa powder, and rocks to start, with air allowing for a silkier texture, dried flowers, and strawberry.
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Casa Setaro's Native Grapes in Vesuvio National Park
I love hearing about an Italian grower within a National Park. It's a surefire way to know the farming is top tier as there are stringent environmental clearances required by the government to operate there. This is the story of Casa Setaro within Vesuvio National Park, owned and operated by Massimo Setaro. Falanghina, Caprettone, and Aglianico are native to these volcanic slopes and are the three wines on offer today.
Caprettone and Falanghina are typically blended for the Lacryma Christi appellation. Setaro has chosen to make their 2025 Munazei Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco with 100% Caprettone to honor it as one of the most native grapes to the volcanic slopes. Savory fruit, sea salt, lemon pulp, and a touch of black pepper. One of the most unique yet approachable white wines from Campania! 2025 Campanelle Falanghina has pretty florals, smoky minerality, and a nutty finish with a smooth texture. Last up is their plump and drinkable 2025 Terramatta Aglianico Campania, which Massimo achieves by destemming, cold soaking, and briefly macerating the grapes. Think prickly, tingly blue and black fruit with the perfume of violets, and a woodsy tree bark note in the finish. Great with a chill! These are special wines made from native grapes, fermented with care for the environment, all from single vineyards, and all under $30.
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New Vintages from Ciro Picariello
In the towns of Montefredane and Summonte in Avellino are Ciro Picariello and Rita Guerriero making some of our favorite wines. Their style is marked by higher tones, extended lees aging, and minimal use of wood. Their vines sit at some of the highest points of the appellation, bringing an apparent freshness to the wines. Today we have the new 2025 vintages of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino. This was a great vintage for them with no major catastrophic weather conditions, no drought and cooler temperatures than the past few years bringing wines with balance, elegance, and pleasant aromatics. The beauty of these two wines is that they can surely be put down for a handful of years, although I don't think you'll be able to resist the vibrancy of the wines today- you can't really go wrong whenever you choose to pop the cork.
Wines from Campania offers so much diversity, from youthful & easy drinking selections to some of the most age defying wines in the world- you can't go wrong!
-Marisa Licandro
