Raúl Pérez - Rarities and "Core Classics"

A couple of weeks ago, the legendary Raúl Pérez was in town and I had the chance to taste some rarities and "core classics" with him at the Skurnik Wines office. It was the best and also the most comprehensive tasting I've had with him, and though many of the wines were not available yet in the US market, I have put together an offering of some of the greatest hits from this intimate tasting.

I was already a fan of the reds from Raúl, which I find to be some of the most compelling wines available from Galicia, showcasing local red grapes like Caiño, Trousseau* (known as Bastardo or Marenzao), Mencia, and Alicante Bouschet, which are often growing together in the old vineyards that Raúl tends in Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra. *Trousseau has been in the area for at least 2 centuries, but lineage suggest that it is not from Iberia. There is a rustic charm and a spine of acidity to each of his red wines. Black and red fruits, earth (not barnyard, rather rich aromatic soil), and above all else, balance. As good as the reds were, the whites stole the show for me. Raúl works with flor and with various aging vessels with such a natural talent (maybe it's his decades of experience too!) and a deep understanding of the history of the area, in his search for texture and aromatic complexity.

Clearly these are some of the most memorable whites from Spain, and Raúl Pérez is one of the most memorable winemakers! He is engaging and passionate, always happy to discuss the decisions he makes with his winemaking, the unique locales of the vineyards that he either works or sources from, from bush vines in lower altitude hills to his very special high elevation Valdecañada project.

History-wise, Raúl was born in Valtuille de Abajo, a small village in Bierzo, and his family was involved in winemaking and grape growing for many generations. He first started working with his family at the Castro Ventosa estate, and then in 2003 he started his own project, "Ultreia," in Bierzo.  In addition to taking over the family winery in 2020, he also started a side project in Bierzo in 2011 in partnership with his nephew César Márquez, called "La Vizcaína." Did we mention that he took over a small estate in Navarra (Lupier) just a few years ago and has just started producing delicious reds from local Graciano and Garnacha grapes? Let's just say the man is busy! Clearly known across Spain and in the wine world as a prolific winemaker, Raúl has been a mentor for many young winemakers in the area and beyond, and is always collaborating with someone! For anyone who wishes to read more about Raúl, we recommend the travelogue style biography from the Skurnik Wines website.

-Eben Lillie