A Tiny New Offering from Sandlands
It's always exciting to get a new drop from one of our favorite California producers and old-vine aficionados Sandlands, if a little bittersweet in that there just never seems to be much wine to go around. The spring release of 2021s is here and while the quantities are miniscule, the wines are as always bursting with energy and big on personality. Sandlands has gained a loyal following over the years, started by longtime Turley winemaker Tegan Passalacqua as a way to highlight some of California's lesser known varietals grown in vineyards that have against all odds managed to shirk industrialization. In addition to his winemaking expertise, what really makes this project special is Tegan's persistence (some might say obsession) in finding old, forgotten vines in tiny corners of California, all planted on their original rootstock and dry-farmed for generations. The soils are predominantly sandy decomposed granite and give the wines a common thread in their supple texture and fine tannins that never feel overly harsh or out of balance. This textural element combined with the dense, concentrated flavors from the ancient vines and carefully restrained touch during the winemaking process make for some truly profound wines that can age gracefully for years, but always show beautifully upon release.
Drinking a bottle of the 2021 Trousseau reminded me of what I love most in a wine: there's tension, savory complexity and pure, wild fruit that all seem to intermingle seamlessly, backed by punchy acidity and just a kiss of tannic grip. While it may all sound nice in writing, the true test is what happens after that first glass. Sure enough, all I wanted to do was turn my brain off, pour some more Trousseau and share with whoever happened to be around (in this case my roommates). We all agreed - these wines, as nuanced and complex as any, are ultimately as enjoyable as they are thought-provoking. To me, that's what makes them special: their capacity to deliver pure and absolute joy.
-Jeff DiLorenzo
