8/31/26 - 

Aurélien Laherte makes some of the most compelling single parcel wines in Champagne, particularly within the Coteaux Sud D'Epernay: the sub region set between the Cotes des Blancs and the Vallee de la Marne. This opportune combination provides pockets of soils that have the best of each region. While there are so many delicious wines to celebrate from this impeccable estate, today I am focusing on Aurélien's parcellaire wines along with two very special, unique bottlings, and his entry Blanc de Blancs. 

The Laherte family has been in the region since 1889 with Aurélien representing the 5th generation. Of his 13 hecatares across 80 plots, some are a bit more special. Aurélien makes a tiny amount of single-vineyard, single vintage wines from five of his most unique and expressive sites that are all biodynamically farmed. Four of those plots are within the village of Chavost and one is in Bouzy. Across the board, these wines are vinified in used Burgundy barrels with no malolactic fermentation before being bottled without fining or filtration. The wines are then aged sur lattes for at least 36 months before disgorgement. I am thrilled to offer the 2021 vintage release of these wines today which are absolutely stunning! Although quite a challenging year across the region with low yields, Laherte Freres made wines of incredible balance, lift, and excellent freshness. These are focused wines with so much energy and joy that are drinking well now but can be cellared for years to come. 

I was lucky enough to visit the estate last year and was completely blown away by the quality of each individual wine. Getting to walk some of the vineyards (pictured above) showed just how special the village of Chavot is. 

Les Grandes Crayeres Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay that is sourced from two very chalky plots in Chavot planted between 1953-1978. This Champagne is absolutely beautiful! It's chalky, salty, and stylish with bright energy. There are great notes of lemon and a hint of marzipan with a strong mineral finish. It's exactly what I personally look for in a Blanc de Blancs.

Les Rouges Maisons Blanc de Noir is 100% Pinot Noir from a north facing parcel in Chavot planted in 1983 on clay soils with flint schist and chalky subsoils. Stunning notes of dried cherry with florals and a hint if spice. It is textural and complex while providing a delicious representation of Pinot Noir. 

Les Vignes D'Autrefois is 100% Pinot Meunier from selected old vine, massale selection parcels of Meunier planted between 1947 and 1964 in the villages of Chavot and Mancy. These old vines provide amazing concentration in this deeply mineral Meunier. Notes of lemon oil, citrus, open up to provide beautiful white flowers. This is the type of wine that can be served alongside such a variety of foods, but also can stand alone as more than just an aperitif. 

Rose de Saignée Les Beaudiers is 100% Pinot Meunier from old vines planted in 1953, 1958, and 1965 in the parcel Les Beaudiers. Soils are black topsoil with fragments of silex before hitting a layer of clay and then hard limestone. Aged 36 months sur lattes. Lovely notes of cherry with rose, and dried herbs. This is a savory leaning rose that provides amazing texture and lift. 

To continue the fun, we have the following wines from Aurélien available today too, each uniquely special in their own right, and simply delicious!

Les 7 [2005-2023] is a single plot coplanted in 2003 on the slopes of Chavot with all 7 grape varietals and has been in a perpetual reserve since 2005. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, Pinot Noir, Fromonteau (Pinot Gris), and Arbane. The blend is 60% from 2023 with 40% from the perpetual reserve since 2005. It is aged 24-30 months on the lees before disgorgement. This wine is incredibly complex with immense depth of flavor. It is one of the most unique and polished Champagnes I have ever tasted before. A very savory champagne with minerality and a hint of nuttiness. The finish is bright and fresh and would be incredible with seafood or poultry!

Petit Meslier is grown on clay-slit soils that become chalk at about 1.5 meters. Originally there was only some co-planted in 2003 with all 7 indigenous varietals but over time Petit Meslier has shown well with climate change and so Aurélien has planted more vines. It is late ripening but continues to hold its acidity. Grapes are hand harvested at peak ripeness and fermentated spontaneously in 228 L barrels with regular lees sturring and 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged sur lie in barrel for 6 months before bottling and spending 20-30 months sur lattes. A truly special way to experience this often forgotten grape. Lovesly notes of marzipan and lemon curd with brisk acidity! 

Bouzy Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs is 100% Pinot Noir from two plots in Bouzy. Vines are 35-45 years old with southern exposure and clay/chalk soils. Grapes are hand harvested, before undergoing indigenous yeast fermentation in 228L barrels. Regular stirring on the lees and no malolactic fermentation. Aged sur lie in barrel for 6 months before bottling, then aged an additional 36 months sur lattes before disgorgement.   

Last, but certainly not least is Aurélien's Blanc de Blancs which is not a parcellaire wine, but one of the best values around for this style that I couldn't help but to include it! From the family's chalkiest soils in Chavot, Epernay, and the Cote des Blancs. This is incredibly mineral with notes of lemon curd, and sea spray alongside a touch of toasted brioche. A really beautiful wine that is balanced with a long finish.  

-Hanna Krilov Cohen

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