Marsannay: An Overlooked Village in the North
5/18/26 -
I know that I am not alone when it comes to getting caught up in the excitement of some villages in Burgundy over others, but during a recent tasting I tried a fantastic Marsannay from Domaine Sirugue (highlighted today) for the first time and was so pleasantly reminded of how delicious wines from this northern village are. A wine that is ready to drink but also built to age is something that I love to see because sometimes I want to purchase wine to drink now. Today's wines are pure, soulful representations of Pinot Noir. Before sitting down to write this offer, I went to the Burgundy 'Bible,' Inside Burgundy, and I was almost disappointed that in the section on Marsannay, rosé was mentioned more than red wine. Although this edition of the book might be a little aged, it does go to show how underappreciated wines from this village are. Yes, Marsannay has the only village level AOC for rosé, but I think the red wines from the village are worthy of more acclaim and recognition. There is one nice thing that comes with being overlooked, and that is that the wines on average are much less expensive than their neighbors further south in the Cote de Nuits. So, I hope you enjoy the journey I took to immerse myself into Marsannay. I think this is a fun mix of iconic producers alongside a few less familiar names. Across the board, these wines are singing, and while they can all be aged, there is no shame in popping the corks on any of these wines this summer!
-Hanna Krilov Cohen
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David Duband
Beginning in 2018, David set out to work with new appellations as well as experiment with new methods in the cellar such as concrete egg aging and sulfur free fermentation and vinification. He named the new label ‘Les Terres de Phileandre’ after his two daughters, Philomene and Leandre. Grapes are only purchased from like-minded vignerons- no herbicides or pesticides are used in the vineyards, and everything is carefully hand harvested, with sorting both in the vineyard and cellar. The wines are made with varying percentages of whole cluster fermentation and are aged for 10-13 months in 0-30% new oak depending on the bottling. I got to taste a lineup of these wines in March when David came to visit New York, and it was amazing to hear first hand his excitement and passion behind this project. In comparison to the wines of his eponymous domaine, these are brighter, fresher, and a bit more energetic. They scream for early drinking as they are just so ripe, friendly, and lifted upon release.

Domaine Sirugue
Domaine Sirugue was a new name for me that has just recently entered New York this year. The domaine is a family affair run by cousins Guillaume and Julien Sirugue. The family owns 32 hectares of vines across Marsannay, Fixin, Brochon, and Gevrey-Chambertin but a majority of the grapes are sold to top domaines and negociants. For the past 5 years Guillaume has worked alongside Arnaud Mortet while developing his own domaine. During the time he has spent with Arnaud, Guillaume is taking cues and following with similar precision, sorting discipline, purity of fruit, and tannin management but is favoring the use of whole cluster as opposed to Mortet's destemmed style. The importer first tasted the wines in December 2023 and was excited about them, but it wasn't until the 2023 vintage that there was enough wine to bring in!
The Marsannay les Quartiers is a stunning bottle with beautiful notes of wild strawberry, black cherry, and pomegranate that is a perfect bottle to pop and pour. It is lively, fresh, and has great concentration. I just kept going back to this wine during the tasting.

Bruno Clair
A true legend of the village is Bruno Clair. The family has been based in Marsannay for almost a century now, and over that time has acquired vineyards throughout the top vineyards in Gevrey, Chambolle, and Vosne-Romanee, with plots as far south as Savigny-les-Beaune. But as you look ath their lineup, there is a strong concentration of wines made from their home village of Marsannay. Today, Bruno's children Edouard, Margaux, and Arthur each have roles across the domaine. Edouard is responsible for the vines and vinification, Margaux works in the vineyards and takes care of shipping, and Arthur is in charge of cellar management. Their Marsannay Rouge is vinified with 10–20% whole bunches and undergoes 10–15 days maceration in wooden vats. It is aged in 20% new oak for 18–20 months in oak barrels before bottling. This wine has amazing notes of bright red fruit with a touch of spice. Bright, and lifted with great freshness and acidity. Drink now or save for 5+ years.

Sylvain Pataille
Sylvain Pataille needs no introduction, one of the most prolific winemakers in Marsannay. Growing up around the vines in Burgundy, Sylvain realized from a young age that he wanted to pursue the life of a winemaker. He very quickly found his way to Marsannay to start his own Domaine after graduating in Beaune. In 1999 he had just 1 hectare of vines but has since grown this to 15 hectares. He makes an incredible lineup of single vineyard Marsannay, today we are highlighting his En Clemengeots. At a tasting showcasing all his 2022s this vineyard stood out to me having excellent balance. There was juicy ripe fruit with great texture and boldness to it. This could get even better with time but is one of the most serious representations of Marsannay I've had recently.

Trapet Pere et Fils
Jean-Louis Trapet has been at the helm of Domaine Trapet Pere et Fils since 1993 when the Louis Trapet estate split into two (Domaine Rossignol-Trapet being the other half). If you looked at more current history, Jean-Louis is a trailblazer for biodynamic farming, making the decision to convert his vineyards back in the mid-1990s. This makes him one of the first growers in Burgundy to implement biodynamic principles and as of 2009, the entire estate is Demeter-certified. Although based in Gevrey, the Trapet family makes an incredible Marsannay that is sourced from 30+ year old vines on clay/limestone soils. Hand harvested and sorted in the vineyard and sorted again at the winery. Open vat fermented with native yeast with 10-20% stem inclusion. The wine is aged in French barriques, approximately 10-15% is new. This is a beautiful soft and supple wine with really pretty fruit. Definitely ready to drink now but will continue to age and develop beautifully over the next few years.

Galeyrand
Jérôme Galeyrand is originally from the Loire and does not come from a winemaking family. He spent years working in the food industry and spent time harvesting with Alain Burguet in Gevrey. This time in Burgundy inspired him to want to pursue winemaking as a career, he enrolled in enology school in Beaune and in 2002 he purchased his first vineyard, that was a mere 0.05 hectares. Today, he farms five hectares with no pesticides, and the bulk of his vines are from the northern portion of the Cote de Nuits. His Marsannay Est-Ouest comes from the site of La Combe du pre and has 45 year old vines. He used 15-20% whole cluster alongside punchdowns and a few pump-overs. It is aged for 12-14 months in 20% new barrels with sulfur added only at bottling. This wine is precise, full of elegance, and incredibly perfumed.
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