7/16/25 - 

Lake Bolsena in Lazio, Italy is one of the most exciting regions for low intervention wine in the past 20 years. The region is experiencing a Renaissance, calling back to ancient grape varieties that the Romans grew. Volcanic soils, more affordable land, indigenous grapes, and bold winemakers with fresh ideas- all these factors have contributed to the revival of Lazio as a reputable wine growing region. Today, we are featuring the wines of Andrea Occhipinti and La Gazzetta, but many other producers including Le Coste, La Villana, Il Vinco, Ajola, and Cantina Ortaccio have all contributed to elevating this landscape.

Andrea Occhipinti is one of the producers whose wines I have been consistently enjoying since his 2016 vintage, around the time I first was introduced to natural wine. When I had the pleasure of meeting him in 2023, I mentioned this to him and his face lit up in a new way. I was so happy knowing that I accidentally complimented him with my knowledge and adoration of his wines! Occhipinti’s vines sit on the Western slopes of Lake Bolsena, which is the largest volcanic lake in Italy with a unique micro climate ideal for grape vines. He is the first to vinify the native Lazio grape Aleatico (Red Moscato) in a dry style for his opening 2004 vintage. Traditionally, Aleatico was only used in the production of sweet wine due to its perfume and bright berry aromas. My favorite wines have tension between the nose and the palate, and Occhipinti’s offer vibrant fruit and floral notes enhanced by the depth, concentration, and minerality that volcanic soils offer.

Something I love about wines from Lake Bolsena is that, generally speaking, the reds tend to be lifted and easy drinking, and the skin contact whites tend to have more tannins, layers of herbs and spice, and a beautiful mellowing with age. When I talk about age worthy Lazio whites, I immediately think of Trish Nelson-an Australian transplant in Lazio. She is a master of extracting bold flavors from Procanico, Ansonica, Malvasia, and Moscato. Like so many of us, Trish first came to know and love natural wine through Cantina Giardino, where she ended up working for two years. A few projects later, she found herself starting her own venture called 'La Gazzetta' on the North Eastern side of Lake Bolsena.
 
If you enjoy volcanic wines from Alto Piemonte, Mount Etna, Campania, The Azores, The Canary Islands, or Santorini please consider the wines from Lake Bolsena. It's always exciting to feel like you're on the cutting edge of the wine scene. Whether these wines explode in the coming years, or stay under the radar.. I'll be drinking them!
 
-Marisa Licandro

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