Jura Wine: Get it While the Gettin’s Good

Our good friend Wink Lorch is making her last visit to the Jura before the publication of her much anticipated book on the region. A report on the 2013 vintage has given us reason to stock up on wines from the Jura. As in many places in Western Europe this year, there’s been a desperate struggle for ripeness in the Jura, and many vignerons will push their harvest date into October in an attempt to squeeze the last remaining rays from the autumn sun. The spring and summer were wet and rainy with countless clusters lost to rot and mildew, and yields down for all grape varieties. While we have absolute confidence that the growers whose wines we buy year in and year out will make wonderful wines in 2013, it will be a tiny vintage.

In the meantime, writing in the Financial Times (June 15/16 2013), Jancis Robinson lets us know that Jura wine is reaching the apex of its popularity here in New York, across the US, and abroad. ("Jura wines are currently at the height of fashion in New York — even the pale red Poulsard grape that is seriously wacky." Poulsard? Wacky?) Rising global popularity plus a problematic vintage means we can’t take the robust hauls of Poulsard, Trousseau, and Savagnin (or the reasonable prices) of the past few years for granted.

Yet when we look at the shelves, the sight of wonderful wines from tried and true growers such as Jacques Puffeney, Michel Gahier, and Stephane Tissot banishes these grim thoughts. At this time we also introduce with excitement Domaine des Bodines. Alexis Porteret is a young grower in the Arbois who honed his skills working for Domaine de la Pinte and Domaine de la Tournelle. Alexis and his wife, Emilie, work less than four hectares on the outskirts of Arbois. Wink says that they began conversion to organics in 2010, and employ some biodynamic practices, but don’t yet have time to commence with full conversion. The wines are fermented in fiberglass before moving to barrels for aging. All are bottled without filtration and with little sulfur. The wines are naturally made, yet they're clean, vibrant and expressive. Our experience is limited but we loved what we've tasted so far and are eager for what's to come. Below you'll find a list of many excellent wines we have in stock from the 2010 and 2011 vintages; there are even a couple of '09s. As my dad would have advised (though perhaps not in reference to Poulsard): “Root, hog, or lose your tater.” Santé!

-Sophie