Falkenstein 2024ers
12/26/25 -
As we wiggle our toes in new socks, and quietly ponder New Years resolutions, a delightful gift of Riesling appears! From Hofgut Falkenstein, one of Germany's great maverick estates, we present wines from the limited and lively 2024 vintage.
Erich Weber and his son Johannes (pictured above, left and middle respectively) craft wines that are unlike any others, not just in Germany, but anywhere in the world. They are light, fresh, and generally much drier than we would expect based on the prädikat each is given (Spätlese, Auslese, etc.) Vibrant acidity and explicit mineral flavors are prominent across the board. Not buttressed by high levels of residual sugar or ripe, creamy richness, the wines can seem austere at first; to us they are savory, direct and, above all, transparent.
The vineyards lie in and around the small villages of Konz-Niedermennig and Krettnach, where the Saar empties into the Mosel, not far from the Ancient Roman city of Trier. The winemaking is as old-school as you can imagine in Germany. The vineyard-work is essentially organic and all the grapes are hand-harvested in multiple passes. In the cellar nothing is added or taken away from the wine (with the exception of a small amount of sulfur dioxide): no enzymes, no cultured yeasts, no sugar, no de-acidification. The wines are honest, authentic examples of both their terroir and vintage. Fermentations are long and leisurely in Weber's cool cellar, and the amount of sugar left in the wine is determined by when the yeasts finish working. Everything is done in large old fuder; there's not a stainless steel tank or a barrique to be found in the cellar, nor any artificial temperature control devices. The Saar is a hotbed for top-quality growers making great wine with distinctive voices, and while we remain devoted fans of the likes of Egon Müller, Geltz-Zilliken and Peter Lauer, the delicate, piquant wines of Hofgut Falkenstein stand alone.
Erich and Johannes in the vineyard, 2015 (Photo: Jonathan Kemp)
The Falkenstein wines have been available in the US since the 2010s, thanks to the diligent work of the Lars Carlberg (pictured in the top photo in cellar with the Webers), an American with an undying passion for Mosel Riesling. He worked successfully for years as an importer bringing in some of the best lesser-known, artisanal estates on the Mosel. We continue our long tradition of offering the wines thanks to Lars, and the awesome team at MFW Wines. We also give thanks to our amazing staff and alums at CSW who have written and proselytized about the wines over the years, John Ritchie, Cari Bernard, Jonathan Kemp (who took all of the photos used in this article in 2015 - Thanks Jonathan!), John McIlwain and Ben Fletcher. Their passion and support for the wines, the Weber family and the Falkenstein project, helped to share their story with the world in a truly historic way!
Prost!
