Biodynamic Saint-Joseph, Condrieu and Vins de Pays from Domaines des Amphores!
2/12/19 -
Véronique and Philippe Grenier at Domaine des Amphores are located on the hillsides of Chavanay, just south of Condrieu, where they produce Saint-Joseph red and white, a lovely Condrieu and delicious Vins de Pays that are sensational values. Certified organic since their beginning in 1992, and since 2016 all the wines are Demeter certified for biodynamic farming as well. During our recent visit, Philippe took great pride in showing us the vines and discussing their health and vigor and the benefits of biodynamic farming for their wines. The commitment and enthusiasm of Véronique and Philippe is inspirational, and typical of the hundreds of small estates around France who quietly produce wonderful organic wines at moderate prices. The wines seem to improve here every year as the effects of their great farming become more evident, and as their son Remi becomes more involved, particularly in the vinifications of the delicious Detour, Saint-Joseph Blanc and Condrieu.
The 2017 Detour Blanc, made from old-vine Clairette, Roussanne and Marsanne, is one of the best values in the store! The unique blend of grape varieties gives the wine lovely complex aromas, and the ripeness on the palate is beautifully balanced by saline minerals and firm acidity. The Saint-Joseph Blanc and Condrieu are both outstanding examples of their appellations and offer excellent value as well.
The 2017 reds are gorgeous Northern Rhone Syrahs for drinking over the next few years, offering ripe, floral blackberry and blueberry aromas. On the palate the wines are lush and supple with delightful red and black fruits balanced by fresh acidity - just delicious! We're not sure about the spelling, but Véronique and Philippe Grenier's "Sphé-érique" is a lovely "natural" Syrah, fermented and aged in a round concrete vat, and bottled with zero added sulfur. The aromas are wonderfully complex and the palate is pure and lovely - serve this unique wine cool and enjoy with a caillette ardechois or just about anything else...
While touring the cellar we came across a vat marked "Mornen Noir" - possibly related to Chasselas, this red grape used to be grown in the northern Rhone and the Loire but is now found only around the town of Chavanay. Phillipe is ressurecting some old vines and doing some replanting - the grape gives a low-alcohol wine with distinctive black fruit flavors - maybe we'll get a few cases to try next year.
As we got ready to leave, Philippe was preparing to meet Jean Gonon, representing organic farming on a committee of Saint-Joseph growers. The terroir around Chavanay gives a somewhat lighter but very pretty style of Saint-Joseph rouge as compared to that of the Gonons, but there are similar methods here and the same committment to great work in the vines. And the whites at this over-achieving estate are particularly lovely. We hope you try them all!
