A Fabulous Chambers Street Exclusive: Cremant "Indigene" from Stephane Tissot!
“Energetic” is an oft used word to describe Stephane Tissot, bright-eyed and full of vitality. A tireless vigneron, Stephane farms between 45 and 50 hectares biodynamically, travels to distant lands as a spokesperson for the Jura, makes numerous different cuvèes, has recently begun experimenting with amphorae aging, and is intimately familiar with each of his terroirs. On a recent visit to Stephane’s Domaine, we toured many of his vineyards. I tumbled out of the back of his Jeep at each plot to examine the soil, Stephane’s hands in the dirt illustrating the difference between clay, limestone, and marl. Just when I thought the tour was over, I found myself following Stephane up to the top of a steep, rocky vineyard to a tiny church known as Le Clos de la Tour de Curon, a favorite vineyard site that commands an impressive view of the Arbois. And then off to taste more wine. ‘Does he sleep?’ I wondered…
Domaine Andre et Mireille Tissot, begun in 1962 by Stephane’s parents, is in Montigny-les-Arsures, just a few kilometers from Arbois. Though most of his wines are from the Arbois appellation, Stephane has vineyard land all over the northern part of the region. In the cellar, we think of Stephane as being a modernist. He uses some new wood; his vineyard specific Chardonnays are at times reminiscent of white Burgundies. Most of his white wines are topped up, yet his sous voile Savagnin proves him to be more than capable of making excellent “traditional” Jura white wine. His red wines are elegant and seamless, some oak kissed, others the essence of freshness. He leaves the impression of being a perfectionist, each wine impeccably executed in the style he has chosen, an especially impressive feat given the size of the Domaine.
My first encounter with Tissot’s Cremant “Indigene” was in January at the Renaissance biodynamic wine tasting in the Loire Valley. I had met Stephane before, found his wines to be a bit polished for my taste, but was looking forward to renewing the acquaintance. After his classic Cremant, he poured me something called Cremant “Indigene”, a wine that ferments with all native yeasts; the second fermentation is begun with Vin de Paille, the thickly sweet, straw mat dried desert wine of the Jura. I was instantly smitten and resolved to have the wine at Chambers Street. The same cepage as Tissot’s Cremant “Normale,” 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, the rest Poulsard and Trousseau, the two Cremants are separated after the first fermentation, when “Indigene” is dosed with Vin de Paille to begin its six month long second fermentation. This slow second fermentation means more complex flavors, a longer finish, a vinosity not found in the regular Cremant, and an all-around delicious bottle of bubbles. Now, seven months later, it gives us great pleasure to offer the first exported vintage of Cremant “Indigene,” only available at Chambers Street Wines. Cheers!
-Sophie
