Pinon 1995 Vouvray "Botrytis" 500ml

1995 "Botrytis" "In recent years I have come to recognise François Pinon as one of the great vignerons of Vouvray, too long overlooked in favour of Foreau, Huet and one or two others. His wines today are top class, but it is only by looking back to the wines of the 1990s that we can see how they perform with age. This example, as the name indicates one built around botrytised fruit, is proof positive of the value of this domaine. In the glass it displays a fabulous orange-bronze hue. And the nose is nothing short of amazing; it possesses a great purity, and yet it is swirled with almond biscotti, dried white peaches and dried oranges, all with a creamed, praline and caramel intensity, as well as a smoke-and-white-pepper energy. The palate is beautifully pure but also rich, broad and bold, with a fine combination of phenolic substance, textural charm and fresh acidity. Weighty yet elegant, a wine which danced across the palate despite the rich residual and bitter botrytis attack Brilliantly poised and correct right through to the finish. Brilliant. - Wine Doctor July 2020