• Fèlsina

    10/12/2006 - Having just returned from Italy, I have the pleasure of reminiscing about my visit to one of the most influential estates in Tuscany.  Southeast of Sienna, lies Fattoria di Fèlsina in the sleepy village of Castelnuevo Berardenga.  I had heard of Fèlsina for two reasons: number one, they were an early proponent of bottling Chianti exclusively from Sangiovese,  and secondly, they were...
  • Domaine Gonon Saint Joseph Arrives at Chambers Street!

    8/4/2006 - Pierre and Jean Gonon work the family's 9 hectares of vineyards located in Mauves, Tournon and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols.  (7 hectares of Syrah, and 2 hectares of Marsanne and Roussanne in the "les Oliviers" parcel) The massale selection vines average 30 years of age and are densely planted.  The soil is fertilized only with their own composts and is plowed and aerated.  Only natural...
  • Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny: There's Nothing That Compares. We Offer the 2004's

    Article from 2008 - This estate has been in the family for several generations. Basically, the Foucault brothers (Nadi and Charlie) tend exceptional vineyards, harvest at small yields, vinify in barrel, let the wines bubble for a couple of years in a glacially cold cellar and bottle without filtration. And what you get is the some of the top red wines of the Loire...
  • Frappato, Si!

    Article from 2008 - La Signora and I have spent a couple of weeks on the wagon; that really nasty cold/cough we both had took all the pleasure out of wine. When we fell off the wagon the other night we had THE BEST BOTTLE OF WINE EVER MADE! How’s that for good luck?!  Since you’ll never guess the wine, here’s the secret: Occhipinti...
  • Raúl Pérez - Rarities and "Core Classics"

    Raúl Pérez - Rarities and "Core Classics"
    [Raul outside his new winery, Winter 2023] A couple of weeks ago, the legendary Raúl Pérez was in town and I had the chance to taste some rarities and "core classics" with him at the Skurnik Wines office. It was the best and also the most comprehensive tasting I've had with him, and though many of the wines were not available yet in the...
  • The Cosmic Champagnes (and Coteaux Champenois) of Benoit Marguet

    The Cosmic Champagnes (and Coteaux Champenois) of Benoit Marguet
    It may just be me but most of my favorite things in life are generally attainable. My favorite foods are foods that I can eat from time to time, my favorite cocktail is one that I can actually order at any self respecting bar. All this is to say that Selosse may be exquisite, but my favorite Champagne is Marguet. Though I am by no means...
  • Belluard Eponyme

    Belluard Eponyme
    There may be a tendency to romanticize the idea of the winemaker. We imagine men and women at one with nature, the vineyard, and the wildlife around them, tending to the vines and reaping the harvest to then press Mother Nature's bounty into juice that will transform into this exquisite and thought provoking, emotional liquid. Unfortunately it's not always easy for our winemaker friends. Decades ago, years...
  • New Arrivals from La Ferme de la Sansonnière!

    New Arrivals from La Ferme de la Sansonnière!
    (Sansonnière wines at a tasting in 2020) Mark Angeli of the Ferme de la Sansonnière is a paysan-vigneron, and an ecological activist. If one character can embody the wine revolution that is happening in the Loire, and more specifically in Anjou, he is without a doubt a serious contender. And his wines are also snapped up all around the world, true unicorns - ironically...
  • Armand Heitz - Headed Straight to the Top

    Armand Heitz - Headed Straight to the Top
    [Armand Heitz in Pommard (Courtesy of T. Edward Wines)] Talk to any serious Burgundy grower these days about what is on their mind and you will likely hear the same refrain. How does the region preserve the delicacy and balance of its wines in the face of an increasingly warm and volatile climate? They are tackling the problem head-on, adjusting long-accepted attitudes towards regular...
  • The Wines of Romain le Bars

    The Wines of Romain le Bars
    Years ago, back in the late 2000's, wines from a relatively unknown estate, L'Anglore, began making the rounds in Paris, and by 2010, were imported into New York by our own David Lillie and friend Phillipe “Fifi” Essome. Made by a humble beekeeper and grape-grower named Eric Pfifferling, who had been selling to the local co-op in Tavel/Lirac area until 2002, these wines had...
  • The Rare and Beautiful "Cuvée 910" from Julien Guillot at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes!

    The Rare and Beautiful "Cuvée 910" from Julien Guillot at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes!
    [La Cuvée 910 - Abbaye de Cluny]   With vineyards dating back to 910 AD that have been farmed organically since the 1950s, and three generations of experience vinifying without additives, Julien Guillot is producing some of the most unique and delicious natural wines of France. And he is doing so with a refreshing lack of pretension - "I want to make wines for...
  • Moreau-Naudet Chablis: Le Vrai Truc (The Real Thing)

    Moreau-Naudet Chablis: Le Vrai Truc (The Real Thing)
    (Virginie Moreau examining a sample (photo courtesy of Grand Cru Selections)) I was recently asked by a friend if I could remember the bottle of Burgundy from which there was no escape. I replied "Of course I can." (For the record, every Burgundy maven who has gone well and truly down the rabbit hole can remember THAT BOTTLE.) For me, it was an old...
  • Zero Sulfur Summer: Wines Made With No Added Sulfites

    Zero Sulfur Summer: Wines Made With No  Added Sulfites
    More and more we are hearing interest from our community in "natural wines" and wines without the addition of sulfur. Though the term "natural wine" is still largely up for debate, generally it is accepted that the wine should have very low to no amounts of added SO2. Sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring by-product of fermention, thus a wine with no added sulfur-dioxide...
  • Pairing Wines with a Niçoise Salad

    Pairing Wines with a Niçoise Salad
    Niçoise salad is a classic dish in France and all around the word. Most French eat this salad during the summer with a glass of wine, relaxing on their patio or terrace. It is a salad that reflects the flavors of the South of France: warmth and generous. Recipes vary among families and localities, and there are many debates as to which ingredients should...
  • Pairing Wine with Steak Tartare (à la Française)

    Pairing Wine with Steak Tartare (à la Française)
    Bernard Baudry in his cellars in January 2018 I mostly eat a vegetarian diet, but I occasionally long for a nice steak or beef dish. Last week, I satisfied my cravings by making a steak tartare à la Française. There are many recipes for steak tartare, from traditional to exotic, with various choices of condiments and spices. However, being born and raised in France,...
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