2007 Saint-Joseph and Vin de Pays From Domaine Pierre Gonon!
5/8/2009 -
One of my most profound and enjoyable wine visits was our recent trip to the cave of Jean and Pierre Gonon in Mauves, Saint Joseph. Although we have been importing the Gonons wines since the 2004 vintage, and communicating frequently, we had not had the chance to visit their cellar and taste with them. Jean Gonon greeted us warmly and generously opened vintages going back to 1990, illustrating the great quality and aging potential of both reds and whites from this excellent domaine.
Jean and Pierre, who took over from their father in 1989, work naturally in the vineyard and in the cellar. The white is from Marsanne, planted in 1958 and Roussanne, planted in 1974 in the Coteau des Oliviers, a great terroir for whites, above Tournon. Replanting is by massale selection. The red parcels are in all three main communes and include old vines of Raymond Trollat in St.-Jean de Muzols. All 24 acres of their hillside vineyards are ploughed, some with a horse, some with a specially equipped small tractor. Harvesting is as late as possible and fermentations are with wild yeasts. "The main problem with outside yeasts is how they make so many wines banal and similar" says Jean. Aging for the red is in 600 liter casks, none new, the whites in Burgundy casks, 3 to 15 years old.
The reds here keep beautifully and show elegant pure blackberry and plum fruit with violet, spice and musky notes. 2008 and 2007 will not be for long aging, thinks Jean, but they will drink well young and won't close-up as the more structured 2006 and 2005 are doing now. 1999 was gorgeous, still with fat red and black fruits, earth, and gamey flavours, 1990 was velvety with mature dark fruit, game and menthol... I was expecting the reds to age well but I was completely floored by the magnificent older whites. The terroir is like that of Les Rocoules in Hermitage, says Jean, and they age as well as the reds. 2001 was superb and 1991 was a perfectly mature combination of stone, hay, honey, lemon and caramel flavors with fabulous earthy length that coated the palate. In the presence of the friendly and humble Jean Gonon this was a moving and beautiful experience. I guess that means you should buy the wine.....
