Spain Emerging - The Canary Islands

10/13/10 -

Canary Ash Salt Floral Sensation - an unusual Spanish terruno emerges.  Prevailing winds, nearly sub-tropical conditions, and dark volcanic soils bring these wines to life remarkably. During the 16th and 17th centuries, British traders were busy filling the demands of their homeland for the wines of Las Islas Canarias, "the dog islands."  Aptly named by the Romans, Las Islas Canarias refers to the pre-Spanish habitation of wild dogs that roamed here.  In the old days, the wines were sweet, Rancio-sytle wines made from the Malvasia grape called "Canary Sack."  The styles have evolved; Rancio wines have moved to the background and are becoming increasingly rare.  Presently, wine-makers tend to favor dry wines and fresher vinos de licor, which leads us to our current offering.  Over the last year I have had the opportunity to taste and re-taste most ofwhat's being imported here to the States for Las Islas Canarias and have been impressed by the quality and honesty of the wines.  These are wines from the region's leading small production wine-makers in qualitative terms, also our favorite values in Canary terroir expression.  In spite of the constant pressure to cater to the monotony of of continuous tourism, there seems to be no pandering to a generic international style.  These are delicious wines of place, and many are first time imports.  Some of these are only to be found at Chambers Street Wines.

Some background - Tenerife is the major island for Canary Island wine production.  It houses the D.O.'s Tacoronte Acontejo known for it's red wines and Ycoden Daute Isora known for it's whites.  La Palma has the reputation for sweet wines as well as the visually stunning Lanzarote.  Listan Negro is the Mission Grape and Listan Blanco is Palomino.  Neither of these rather neutral grapes are nearly as expressive in other soils and climates.  Soil is the magic here.