Red Burgundy: Côte de Nuits vs. Côte de Beaune
12/9/24 -
There is always a bit of competition with neighbors, and that remains true when you talk about the Côte de Nuits vs. the Côte de Beaune. What does one expect when both areas contain some of the best vineyard sites in the whole world and they are just a quick drive away from one another. This email is by no means an attempt to claim one to be better than the other but rather highlight two producers who are championing their perspective villages.
We begin with Domaine Duroché in the Cotes de Nuits, simply from the logic of starting in the North. Pierre Duroché is the fifth generation winemaker in Gevrey-Chambertin. In 2005 Pierre took over management at the family domaine and was ready to make some changes when it came to farming. He removed the use of all chemical products and began focusing on the health of the soils. While these adjustments showcase a respect to land and farming, Pierre has chosen to continue the family tradition of making wines of elegance in a region often looked to for "masculine" styles of red Burgundy. The Duroché’s 8.25 hectares of vines showcase every level of Gevrey beginning with Bourgogne Rouge, a village level Gevrey, and then a few lieu-dits Gevreys that Pierre feels deserve their own spotlight outside the village blend. Additionally they have 3 Premier Crus and 4 Grand Cru sites. I have been lucky enough to visit Pierre and his wife Marianne, as well as meet them in New York and Burgundy over the years, and outside of how stunning I believe these wines are, there is a level of humility they both have. They are proud of the wines they create yet have always been so kind to me, and appreciative when I have shared my love for their wines with them. Although Pierre has been working his family vines for almost 20 years now, he still showcases that new generational energy that has brought a following for the estate. These wines show respect for the terroir of Gevrey-Chambertin yet showcase finesse and an understated power that has always kept me comingback for more.
Moving south, just a 25 minute drive down the D974, falls Domaine Simon Bize & Fils. A benchmark producer of the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, founded by Simon Bize in 1890, Patrick Bize took over in 1972 as the fourth-generation, and today the Domaine is run by his widow Chisa Bize alongside Patrick’s sister Marielle Grivot-Bize. Chisa is Japanese born but has lived in Savigny-lès-Beaune since 1993. When meeting her, her excitement and energy around wine would never lead you to believe that she was once a banker but only pursued winemaking after the untimely death of her husband. Over the past few years Chisa has brought the estate to biodynamic farming, wanting to “carry on Patrick’s ever-present goal of pursuing quality through careful and exacting work in the vines, working in harmony with nature, and striving to ensure the domain’s future in a healthy environment.” This dedication to farming and winemaking provides wines of power, intrigue, and terroir. Similarly to Pierre Duroché, the wines of Chisa show off all levels of the village, in this case Savigny. Beginning with a Bourgogne Rouge, highlighting single vineyards at the village level and moving to her 6 premier cru vineyards throughout Savigny-lès-Beaune. There is something here for everyone!
Something I love about these two domaines and their wines is how true to themselves they remain while continuing to lift their family’s wines and their respective villages. Whether it be Gevrey-Chambertin or Savigny-lès-Beaune, both winemakers are showcasing what amazing Burgundy is all about: the terroir. From village level through lieu-dits, premier, and grand crus you will find that precision in both Duroché and Bize. And whether you add to the rivalry by picking a side between Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune or like me, you choose to enjoy both for what makes each so great, you are sure to have a smile on your face drinking either of these producers’ fantastic wines.
-Hanna Krilov
