Pranzegg: Wine from the Alto Adige
6/7/19 -
The drive from Verona to Bolzano is awe-inspiring. As you make your way north along the shores of Lake Garda the terrain starts to rise up, first gradually in a series of hills, then suddenly, into the full splendor of the mountains. Bolzano is located in a valley, with the mighty Alps as a backdrop and the steep slopes of the Dolomites on both sides. Cultivation of the vine has taken place here for hundreds of years, with terraced vineyards built into the mountainsides above the town. Martin Gojer took over his family's estate in 2008, and very quickly decided to convert the vineyards to biodynamics, and to stop selling to the local cooperatives. Our exploration of his wines started a few years ago, and each subsequent visit feels more thrilling than the last.
Martin's main work is focused on the two historical red grapes in this region, Schiava and Lagrein. The vines are trained in the traditional pergola system of the region (it's surprisingly warm in the Alto Adige in the summer, and this allows the fruit protection from the alpine sun), and the vineyards are absolutely stunning, full of life and energy. The great farming is mirrored by immaculate work in the centuries old cellar, where fermentations take place with only indigenous yeasts, and the wines mature in a combination of large cement vats and used wood. A particular highlight for me is the Schiava, which is both lively and lifted, and a serious wine of length, depth, and profundity. A big step up from some of the very light and slightly reedy wines that are sometimes made here using the grape. The white wine production at Pranzegg is equally impressive, with Tonsur being a beautiful expression of floral aromatics, freshness and mineral character that is possible in this high altitude growing region. The Caroline is a different beast, a fleshy and textured white, that shines when paired with the heartier regional cuisine, risotto, or alpine cheeses.
Martin Gojer decided to show his wines at VinItaly (Italy's largest, and definitely craziest wine fair) just once, and we're very happy that we just so happened to wander past his booth those years ago. Tasting multiple vintages of both the reds and the whites from tank and barrel, we are even more excited to be able to offer you these wines now, and in the future. Our most recent visit just went even further to strengthening our commitment to the fantastic work done at this estate. We can't wait until next year's visit.
-Oskar Kostecki
