New & Nostalgic Wines from Campania

11/5/26 - 

Today is an exciting day for lovers of Fiano, Falanghina, Aglianico, and Piedirosso. These native grapes of Campania have such a distinct character, especially from the more inland zones of the region where Pierluigi Zampaglione and Cautiero lie. Here we find a higher elevation, breezy, mountainous style of wine with balanced fruit, acidity, and minerals. 

Zampaglione

We are thrilled to announce today the return of Pierluigi Zampaglione to the NY market after many years. I first encountered their sole white wine 'Don Chisciotte' early in my Brooklyn wine career about 10 years ago. In a sea of 'funky' orange wines taking over the palates of New Yorkers, Don Chisciotte stood out to me with a notable sense of place and truthfulness to Fiano. Fast forward to this past April at a small wine fair in Cerea, Italy where we were able to taste with Rita who represents the next generation of this Alta Irpinia based farm, and we can report that the family is doing well and the current 2022 vintage is fantastic.

Their small team consists of owners Pierluigi, Nerina, and their daughter Rita, along with Nunzio helping in the fields and Fortunato working in the cellar. Together they operate a 100 hectare farm growing mostly wheat and spelt (pictured below) which has been organic since 1990 with crop rotation as a core principle to protect against soil depletion. In 2003 they planted two small Fiano plots to yellow tuff, clay, and siliceous sandy soils totaling 3 hectares. One of the main strengths of this estate is its location. Since they sit about 70km east of the Fiano di Avellino appellation in Calitri, they benefit from higher elevation (2600 feet above sea level!) which bring warm, sunny days and cool, crisp nights to achieve the depth and tension evident in the bottle. 

After harvest, native fermentation and skin maceration lasts about 10-12 days, then the Fiano is moved into stainless steel for one year of aging. The Zampaglione's have dubbed it "Mountain Fiano" as it flexes towards a bright, herbal style with some of its characteristic toasty notes playing a supporting role. Lemon verbena, bergamot, dill, ginger, green tea, and apricot all come to mind while the skin maceration brings a golden hue and tea-like tannins.

I cannot think of a wine better suited to the autumn table. Braised poultry, roasted squash, french onion soup, brown butter sauces, and warmly spiced sausages would all be lovely. Or try out Rita's family's typical pairing of Spaghetti alla Nerano (crisped zucchini, provolone & basil pasta). It became a tradition in my family to pair this wine with our Thanksgiving meal each year. While Don Chisciotte may not evoke the same nostalgia for you, the hope is that you share it with loved ones and continue to drink wines that sit outside of formal wine appellations. There is magic to be found all over Italy, especially on this humble grain farm.

-Marisa Licandro

Cautiero

Another Campanian producer whose wines we're happy to have back at the shop is Cautiero. Based in Sannio, in the region of Benevento, about an hour's drive northeast of Naples, Imma and Fulvio Cautiero (pictured above) started their humble project in the early 2000s and have been producing delicious regional wines ever since. In their own words:  

"We are located on the west side of the Taburno Mountain, in land of the Campania Region where viticulture develops among pastures, forests, olive and cherry trees. It is here where we, winemakers in our DNA, have dedicated ourselves to the agriculture with an organic approach; respecting and safeguarding the surrounding environment. Thanks to the favorable microclimate, the clay soils, and the low yields, we have obtained important and structured wines with a remarkable typicity. The fermentation of all wines with pied de cuve is the result of spontaneous fermentation, with a very small amount of sulfur."

After many years without any Cautiero wines on the shelf, we were excited to rekindle the relationship and bring in a small shipment this year. Their honest wines, from local varieties like Falanghina, Fiano, Aglianico and the unique and delicious Piedirosso offer fantastic value and are perfect for the Fall and Winter!

-Eben Lillie

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