Jura Season: The Wines of Lulu Vigneron & Les Coteaux du Val de Sorne

11/4/19 -

We can’t help but think of the Jura as the days get colder. From this tiny region, earthy Vin Jaune and punchy, brandy-enhanced Macvin are two specialties; but it's the dry, fresh ouillé styles of many whites and reds, along with the bubbly Cremant du Jura, that have brought it increased attention in the modern market. Today we’re highlighting a few truly dynamic producers, all focused on natural production, and all offering wines to suit the chilly months ahead.

Ludwig Bindernagel and his wife first went to Burgundy in the hopes of a future in winegrowing. However, the price for land was too high, so they looked east to the Jura. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, those Burgundian essentials, had long before migrated there. Since purchasing Les Chais du Vieux Bourg in 2000, they’ve produced a roster of very Jura-centric styles (along with very Burgundian styles of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). Even in the early vintages, these wines were recognized as being unique and beautiful. Now in 2019, they’re known as Lulu Vigneron, and their class is undeniable. No chemical fertilizers, pesticides or machinery touch the vineyards. Native yeasts are used in the cellar, and very low doses of sulfur are used in production. The ouillé Savagnin is zesty and savory, and the ‘MicMacvin’ is a warm glass of spices and roasted orchard fruits. My original tasting notes for Lulu’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay stressed their elegance and purity. There is something special going on here, no doubt about it.

Jean-François Ryon is the 14th generation winemaker at Domaine Les Coteaux du Val de Sorne, in the village of Vernantois, and creates wines of a more rustic quality. From his 2.7 hectares, he harvests Poulsard for a burly red, full of earth and spice, along with Poulsard and Chardonnay for a multi-layered, savory/sweet Cremant. Like Lulu, he farms organically and focuses on non-interventional cellar methods. Everything Jean-François does here is also an ode to the Jura’s past. His cellar is inside a 17th century building, his vineyards were once part of an estate belonging to the abbey of Saint-Claude, and even his label hosts an old image of Saint Vernier (once the Jura’s patron saint of vintners) picking Poulsard grapes. There is seemingly no disconnect between culture, land, and wine in Ryon’s approach. 

So, as you consider what to sip as the days get shorter, or if you’re looking for the perfect treats for your Thanksgiving Day feast, think of the Jura. Exceptional winemaking has created products of great versatility and flavor, with influences coming from both tradition and the individual characters of those doing the work. Enjoy and stay warm! David Hatzopoulos