Treasures from Touraine: Christophe Foucher's "La Lunotte" and the wines of Lise and Bertrand Jousset
11/7/19 -
I'll always remember the moment when my father and I met Lise and Bertrand Jousset in France. It was the first time tasting their wines from Montlouis and Touraine, and my father got to talking about his early days of working with Loire Valley wines. He mentioned working with the wines of Claude Levasseur, which invoked some nostalgia and a big grin from Bertrand. Levasseur was a classic rosy-cheeked farmer - and the uncle of Francois Chidaine - from the old generation of winemakers in Montlouis, and apparently his is not a name known outside of a small circle. As they traded stories, I mentioned the winemaker Christophe Foucher, which set Bertrand alight again, as he and Christophe had attended wine school in Amboise together. As the conversation continued, I had a feeling that this would be a special friendship, which it indeed has been for many years now. I have reflected back on this moment many times, in particular, when I think about the La Lunotte wines of Christophe Foucher, and the wines of Lise and Bertrand Jousset. To me, it's interesting how the stories of these two estates took such different trajectories from their origins in Amboise.
In the case of Christophe Foucher, the story is focused completely on the small hamlet of Couffy, in the Loire-et-Cher department of the Loire Valley. Here, Christophe has lived a simple life for decades, tending vines from several small parcels, some for his father-in-law, some for winemakers in the area who buy organic grapes (Pineau d'Aunis for Olivier Lemasson's Poivre et Sel often comes from Foucher), and some for his little project, La Lunotte. Christophe lives and breathes this place. Visiting the parcels, one is always under the impression that the vines are extensions of his body, as every hour spent walking his rows has developed in him a deep connection with each root and branch. He is at peace here, and each year seems more and more proud of the natural harmony in the vineyards. To him, the wines that he bottles (always with no addition of sulfites) are a pure expression of the place, and tell a special story.
Only an hour away in Montlouis-sur-Loire, Christophe's former classmate, Bertrand Jousset, forged a completely different path after Amboise. Full of energy and enthusiasm, Bertrand has slowly developed a dynamic estate, along with his wife and partner Lise. Primarily working with Chenin Blanc in Montlouis, they also obtained and maintain parcels of Gamay, Grolleau and Chardonnay in Touraine. Their approach has always been to make wines that express their character and their origins, and to work with living soils. In the past 5 years, with unstable weather damaging their Loire Valley parcels, they applied this same approach to negociant projects and collaborations with winemakers across the country. One year, Bertrand put on a backpack and traveled around France, harvesting grapes and bringing some back to Montlouis as his salary! Now, Bertrand has even set his sights on old mountain vineyards in Ibiza (yes, that Ibiza). Due in part to the magnetic personalities of Lise and Bertrand, and to the consistent quality and vivacity of their wines, the Joussets have become known and celebrated internationally. They have mentored many a young winemaker, and are always beaming during wine fairs, as people from around the world gather around to experience the wines and the glow.
I have a deep affinity for Christophe Foucher and the soulful and humble wines of place he releases. I think there is something unique and undeniably special about his commitment to his little corner of the world. The wines are singular, transportive, and hard to compare to anything else. I also love the Joussets and look forward every year to tasting new wines with them! Their Chenin Blancs are distinguished, and their Vin de France wines from the Loire (and beyond) are delicious, fun, and full of surprises (Imagine the first time we tasted the Mosquito Pet-Nat from Muscat grapes from Danjou Banessy in the Languedoc!).
Today we showcase new arrivals from Christophe Foucher, and Lise and Bertrand Jousset, with equal enthusiasm! Though the stories of the estates may differ in many ways, they both practice organic agriculture, and natural vinifications with minimal or zero-added SO2, and are producing some of the most delicious and most natural wines of the Loire Valley!
-Eben Lillie
