A Fresh Face in Ancient Faro - Giovanni Scarfone / Bonavita
4/23/12 -
(Giovanni Scarfone from Bonavita)
Slightly over 3 miles from the rocky Calaiabrn coast is Messina, the gateway to Sicily. The Greeks first founded the colony in the 8th Century BC, and the land came to be known as “Casale del Faro” because of the influx of Greeks from the town of Pharis. In the 18th Century Faro became internationally renowned for its wines, which were even exported to France. Unfortunately the combination of an earthquake and tsunami in 1908 devastated both the town and agriculture of Messina, and killed about 70,000 of its residents. Those who did survive were slow to rework the ailing vineyards, and the Faro region has never recovered completely. In the last century the town of Messina has begun to sprawl out, and suburbia is encroaching on the land that was once used for viticulture. Houses and businesses have replaced steep ancient vineyards that no longer have willing custodians. Today there are only 20 Hectares under vine in the entire DOC.
Enter Giovanni Scarfone, the current steward of his family’s century-old estate: Bonavita, comprising just over two hectares of organically grown Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappucio, and Nocera. Sicilian wine buffs may recognize the first two varieties from Mount Etna to the south; Nocera is an indigenous grape valued for its acidity and freshness. Standing in Giovanni’s beautifully manicured vineyards 250 meters above the sea, one has an unparalleled view of the Italian mainland and the hills beyond. On our visit the strong “Sirocca” wind from Africa was howling in the trees which surround the property and which help protect the vines. The site gives the visitor a real feeling of isolation and solitude, remarkable considering the city is essentially just over the hill. The soil here is a medium weight mix of clay and limestone that Giovanni fortifies by tilling in legumes and manure. After a hand harvest by Giovanni and some local characters, the grapes are brought to a miniature cellar in the garage of his parent’s house. There, a “pied de cuve” is separated to start a native yeast fermentation. This fermenting must is added to the rest of the harvest and will continue to ferment for 15 days on the grape skins in stainless steel tanks. All three of the varieties are co-fermented. For aging, around 60% pass through used oak barrels, and the remainder stays in steel. Bonavita is much more full of life and much less full of toasty barrel tastes than any of the other Faros we’ve tried. Although his Faro is by no means a light-bodied wine, with Bonavita there is underlying core of fresh earth and bright fruit that keep all of the elements balanced and delicious. We are also pleased to have received a shipment of Giovanni’s insanely delicious Rosato. This is a blend of the thin skinned Nerello Mascalese and Nocera varieties; it walks the line between “light red” and “dark rose,” much like a Grignolino or Poulsard. Giovanni believes that back when the Greeks worked the hills of Faro, and maceration times were much shorter, the wines were probably very much like this. JR
