Exercises in Mature Champagne: Pascal Doquet
4/24/12 -
Nothing gives us greater pleasure than offering mature Champagne at a great price. As much as we relish the cut and the laser-like complexity of well-made, young Champagne, we have a true appreciation for the broad, savory tones, the mellow earth and mineral characteristics of a fine, “adult” bottle of Champagne. In fact, Champagne ages very interestingly, the vivacious flavors and angularity of youth giving weigh to a certain burnished, occasionally cheesy, sometimes nutty richness. The bubbles begin to dissipate into the wine and the overall effect is one of stately opulence… particularly in the case of 1990 Doquet, the impetus for our offer today, and a superb value in mature Champagne.
Pascal Doquet, a well-respected grower based in Vertus, began making wine at his parent’s Domaine (Doquet-Jeanmarie) in the 1980s. He took over the winemaking completely in 1995, and he began his own Domaine in 2004. The wines we are offering today span Doquet’s stewardship of his parent’s Domaine, yet they bear Pascal’s name on the labels. Upon taking over in 1995, Doquet immediately began to change the type of viticulture practiced at the Domaine; he stopped using systemic herbicides and, in spite of the many challenges faced by organic growers in the region, has recently become certified in organic viticulture. This is a familiar story in Champagne: a son or daughter rejects their parent’s vineyard regime (often developed in the 1960s, when widespread chemical use began), believing that a more harmonious and mineral-forward wine will result from more natural farming. We couldn’t agree more.
Doquet’s Domaine is between eight and nine hectares, located in Vertus, Le Mesnil, and Mont Aimé. Planted to 95% Chardonnay, these are clear expressions of Côte des Blancs Champagne. The non-vintage, Grand Cru Mesnil-sur-Oger shows the power of Mesnil, one of the most distinct Grand Crus in Champagne. Normally this wine is aged for seven years on the lees, meaning that, though it’s the youngest of the four we’re offering, it’s a mature wine and ready to drink now. The vintage wines are from the Doquet’s best parcels in Vertus. The wines are atypical for Vertus - if we think of Vertus as a racy, delicate wine in the style of Peirre or Guy Larmandier. A portion of the wine is aged in barrel; there is also a long period of lees aging (normally five years), which imparts further richness to the wine. Across the board, these wines are a delicious and reasonably priced way to experience Champagne with age. Salut! -Sophie
