Thomas-Labaille 2024 Sancerre "Cuvée Buster"

This is old vine Sancerre from the estate of Claude Thomas now run by his son-in-law, Jean-Paul Labaille. The vines are in Les Monts Damnées, in Chavignol, on a similar type of Kimmeridgian marl soil that also shows up in Premier Cru Chablis. About 50 - 100 cases are made, a selection of the best juice, and when there is good acidity and minerality, it will drink well young but be at it's best in 8 to 15 years. This is one of the best wines of Sancerre and will accompany the most elegant fish and shellfish preparations. (And yes, there's an ugly dog on the label, a joke by importer Joe Dressner on the ridiculous super-cuvées much in vogue in the 90's when this label was designed.) The 2024 is a leaner and brighter version of this normally voluptuous wine, with very firm acidity and complex mineral notes beneath the elegant white fruits and citrus flavors.