Mongioia 2016 Moscato d'Asti Crivella

Crivella is made with fruit from Riccardo Bianco’s oldest vines, including some planted in the mid 1800s by Riccardo’s great-great-something grandfather; such old vines are extremely rare, and while they produce very little fruit, it’s impossible for Riccardo to even think about replacing them. At a tasting in the shop a customer said, “Like Sauternes with bubbles!” which was a lovely way to describe the wine and its rich and unctuous character. made lively with fizz, and crisp with balancing acidity. A great match with cheese or not-so-sweet desserts, like panetone, or fruit pies. While there’s no botrytis, Crivella is much more complex and detailed than all but the very best Sauternes. I’ve certainly never tasted anything like it — a stunning wine. -Jamie Wolff