The Singular Wines of Domaine Uchida and More Biodynamic Bordeaux!
The Singular Wines of Domaine Uchida and More Biodynamic Bordeaux!
In a region steeped in tradition and marked by its own rich history of producing some of the world’s capital-g Great Wines, it’s not often that a relative newcomer can show up and establish themselves as having a unique and distinctive style while still honoring that storied past and local heritage. Osamu Uchida is something of a maverick in that regard, arriving in Bordeaux from Hiroshima first in 1999 to study viticulture and oenology, and eventually establishing his own domaine in 2015 with .6ha of vines in Cissac-Médoc. It’s not a particularly popular spot for new winemakers, especially those looking to work organically and make minimal-intervention wines. Osamu sees this as both a challenge and an opportunity, reflecting that “Everyone was telling me don’t go to Bordeaux, anywhere else is great. So I decided to explore Bordeaux. Then people advised me ok if you go to Bordeaux go to the right bank not the left bank. So I settled in Pauillac on the left bank.” Since then he has expanded to about 2.4ha of vines across five plots in Haut-Médoc, all farmed biodynamically since 2019. He lives in Pauillac, just a stone’s throw from Mouton Rothschild. Everything Osamu does is meticulous and with intention: de-stemming by hand, maceration at cool temperatures and fermentations with native yeasts with no fining or filtration and either no or very minimal use of sulfur. The wines are elegant, heady and pure-fruited while expressing all the character and terroir that makes this land so special.
The 2023s are beautifully approachable on release but have enough substance to age a decade or more easily. His Miracle Cuvee is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from his original .6ha plot of vines, planted in deep sandy soils over clay and limestone. The vineyard is remote and surrounded by trees, contributing to Osamu's agroforestry approach. This year he has released two brand new wines, Classical M (100% Merlot) and Classical C (100% Cabernet Sauvignon), both of which show clear varietal character while carrying the same remarkable freshness and vivacity that typify all of Osamu’s wines. Alcohol percentages range from 12.5%-13.5% and never feel clunky or over-extracted. There is still structure and tension, and all three of the reds are exceptional and worth stashing a bottle or two if you can, as we don’t know just when they might come around again. The whites are equally as compelling, his Pheromone Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris) showing beautiful texture and lift while the 2024 Serenade (also Sauvs Blanc and Gris but with a longer maceration) is ethereal and complex while maintaining an elegant composition and poise. These whites are just as age-worthy as the reds, with great acid structure and density that suggest many layers that may take some time to reveal themselves. With total production between 3,000-5,000 bottles annually, it’s a rare treat to be able to offer these wines that will only become more sought after as the word gets out.
In addition to these singular wines from Domaine Uchida, we’ve recently received some shipments of outstanding Bordeaux wines, all farmed organically / biodynamically and at a range of price points. Of particular note are the 2022 Clos Puy Arnaud Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux, showing beautiful richness and depth at an unbelievable price, and the outstanding 2019 Hauts de Smith (Smith Haut-Lafitte) Pessac-Leognan – a wonderful vintage of this wine and consistently one of the best values for left-bank Bordeaux. -Jeff DiLorenzo
**Uchida Wines arrive Wednesday 3/25**