Thomas-Labaille 2023 Sancerre "Cuvée Buster"
This is old vine Sancerre from the estate of Claude Thomas now run by his son-in-law, Jean-Paul Labaille. The vines are in Les Monts Damnées, in Chavignol, on a similar type of Kimmeridgian marl soil that also shows up in Premier Cru Chablis. About 50 cases are made, and when there is good acidity and minerality, it will drink well young but be at it's best in 8 to 15 years. This is one of the best wines of Sancerre and will accompany the most elegant fish and shellfish preparations. (And yes, there's an ugly dog on the label, a joke by importer Joe Dressner on the ridiculous super-cuvées much in vogue in the 90's when this label was designed.) The 2023 is very elegant with subtle aromas of stone, citrus, white fruits and herbs, with a bit more ripeness than usual in the difficult but quite successful 2023 vintage. The palate shows firm acidity backing dense mineral, citrus and pear flavors that open and grow more complex with air, or time in the cellar. Decant if drinking now, superb wine!