Huet 1997 Haut-Lieu Moelleux 1er Trie

"Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Moelleux Première Trie 1997: From a hugely successful vintage for Noël Pinguet and the domaine, this is just one of three première trie moelleux cuvées produced in this vintage, as Le Mont and Clos du Bourg also delivered the goods (there was also a Cuvée Constance released). In the glass it displays an intense bronze-gold hue, very true to the style of the vintage and the domaine, with a deeply pigmented, botrytis-driven hue. The aromatics are divine, with notes of baked oranges, macaroons, dried apricot and fresh citrus peel, complicated by the aromas of deep penetration of noble rot, including black tea leaves and liquorice. It is fresh, bright and tense on the palate, with a beautiful precision, energy and direction, combining measured and focused sweetness with a tense, gripped and bright style. The flavours come in layers, with oranges, dried apricots, black tea and hints of tobacco. Deliciously poised, bright and pure, this is quite brilliant. No rush here; drink or hold. The alcohol on the label is 12%" (Wine Doctor - tasted in 2022.)