New arrivals/returning favorites from Brovia!
New arrivals/returning favorites from Brovia!
It is no secret that we are fans of the incredible wines from the humble duo of Alex Sanchez and Elena Brovia of the eponymous estate in Castiglione Falleto. So when I was invited to a seminar at Rosenthal's office featuring their current offerings I was eager to hear all about these unique and extraordinary wines from the artisans that craft them.
The 160-year-old estate was founded in 1863 by Giacinto Brovia and has operated uninterrupted since, save for a 30 year pause caused by phylloxera and world wars. The modern iteration of the estate came about when Giacinto and Raffele, grandchildren of the founder, revived the wine production in 1953. Giacinto was a trained enologist who focused on winemaking side of the business and Raffele an agronomist who was in the vineyard tending the plots. For 50 years they worked in harmony with land until they passed the reins of the estate to Elena, Giacinto's daughter, and her husband Alex.
This past Thursday, I attended a Brovia seminar held by Rosenthal Wine Merchant with the producers Alex Sanchez and Elena Brovia (pictured above). Originally intended to be an "informal" tasting on the wines of Brovia it quickly evolved into a comprehensive discourse on the philosophy of the estate with Alex going into exacting detail on the current challenges being faced in the vineyard with the most recent vintages. Vintages like 2023 with abundant rain in the spring causes humidity problems in the vineyard, increasing risk of mildew and disease. The natural response is to de-leaf but this causes the grapes prone to sunburn later in the vintage. The landscape has changed but the response is the same, careful canopy management, pruning and minimal intervention. The more you manipulate the base material the farther you get from the land, Alex says, and it is this ideology that the duo endeavor to uphold. It is clear that this a labor of love not driven by maximizing profit, especially considering that their Freisa is planted in Villero, their Dolcetto in Brea, and Barbera in Garblet Sue. They could replant with Nebbiolo and make more Barolo but then they would lose a crucial part of what makes Piedmont's gastronomic culture so unique. Every single wine that comes out of the estate has a purity that speaks clearly the identity of the varietals and of the unique land that nurtures the vine.
Today we offer the new vintages of the estate's Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo d'Alba, Freisa as well as the inaugural vintage of Anterse, the estate's first venture into sparkling wine production. In addition, we are pleased to highlight the last of stock of 2023 Arneis, the undervalued but overperforming 2020 Barolo normale, and a small quantity of 2018 Garblet Sue. Finally, a small number of magnums are available, in case you missed the spectacular single vineyards bottlings last time.
A huge thank you to Alex Sanchez and Elena Brovia for their insight as well as their importer and distributor Rosenthal, who graciously provided technical information and photos for this email.
-Ranggy Tapia
Brovia 2023 Roero Arneis
The Brovia Arneis is one of the best examples we know of Piedmont’s indigenous white wine. One of the very few Arneis made with native yeasts, this wine is a benchmark for the grape – you can't really say for...
$33.99
Brovia 2019 Spumante "Anterse" Metodo Classico Extra Brut
Named "Anterse" a term used in weaving - Brovia's metodo classico weaves together 3 local varieties: Barbera (60%) sourced from a high altitude site whose naturally lofty acidity allow Alex and Elena to harvest at full phenolic maturity and still...
$56.99
Brovia 2022 Dolcetto d'Alba Vignavillej
From the estate's parcels in the Brea vineyard in Serralunga on clay-limestone soils, this is the part of Brea where the slopes make a bend leading into Gianetto. Fermented and raised in all stainless steel, "Vignevillej" is always a charming...
$22.99
Brovia 2022 Barbera d'Alba Sori' del Drago
Barbera from the estate's "Garblet" vineyard in Castiglione Falleto from a .8 hectare plot at 250 meters. Originally planted in 1970 with certain parts being replanted in 1993. After fermentation the wine rests in stainless steel for 15 to 18...
$31.99
Brovia 2022 Langhe Freisa "La Villerina Secca"
Brovia's Freisa is partially sourced from their parcels in the Villero cru, vinified dry. The Villerina Secca is a beautiful example of the varietal, dark brambly fruit and wild tart berry notes but finishes with ripe tannins. Ideally consumed within...
$39.99
Brovia 2021 Nebbiolo d'Alba
Brovia's sole Nebbiolo d'Alba comes from the famed Valmaggiore vineyard in the Roero. .5 ha plot in a south facing plot at 340m altitude with vines planted in 1975. Unlike their Barolo this wine is aged in stainless steel for...
$46.99
Brovia 2020 Barolo
A blend of Brea and Gianetto - contiguous vineyards in Serralunga - the 2020 Barolo is beautifully balanced an elegant wine - very fine indeed. Jamie Wolff
$69.99