We've long been fans of what Steve and Jill Matthiasson have been doing in California, true legends who are at the forefront of organic regenerative agriculture and who happen to make some of the most consistently delicious wines in Napa. Steve is first and foremost a master of farming, and he is still one of the top vineyard consultants to many California growers and winemakers. His approach is as much about organic farming as it is about creating a sustainable operation, with a mindset that it's equally important to focus on the health of the vines as it is to support his workers and the natural ecosystem that surrounds the vineyards. All of this has a cumulative effect on the resulting wines, which are always clean, precise and elegant while still showing character and place.

At a recent seminar Steve shared an analogy that perfectly encapsulates that cumulative effect and how important every step of the process can be, from the soils to the vines to the people who end up picking the grapes. He related how adding just a few bad grapes into a batch of mostly good ones can be like adding a few drops of black paint into a bucket of white paint, where it turns the whole thing grey. Conversely adding some good grapes to a crop of mostly bad ones can be like adding a few drops of white paint to a bucket of black paint: it does nothing! Growing high quality fruit consistently year after year is a challenge in itself, but supporting a dedicated team who cares enough to maintain the highest of standards while pruning, picking and sorting is equally necessary to achieve a great wine. Steve cares about sustainability in such a way that many winemakers might not even consider, minimizing or eliminating the use of plastic at his winery and being conscious of the environmental impact of transporting via diesel. He explained how they've even gone as far as switching his ties from plastic to twine, which can decompose more easily and do not pollute the water supply. He tries not to plow if possible and works to limit soil compaction, which allows for more water absorption and less runoff. He's generally one of the first to pick in the area (along with Cathy Corison, a neighbor and good friend), which allows his wines to retain great acidity and finish at a reasonable alcohol level, often times not higher than 13.5%. His meticulous organic farming allows the grapes to still achieve full phenolic ripeness, so the wines are never underripe, thin or sharp feeling. If you see his vineyards you'll notice the grass and native plants that serve to provide a habitat for insects and birds, all of which help increase the carbon in the soil and provide a healthy base for the vines to grow year after year. This ensures that even in difficult conditions the vines can not only survive but continue to produce high quality fruit. He likens this to training for a marathon, where a healthy diet and foundational exercise are imperative during times of stress, such as a hot, dry growing season. These types of seasons have impacted all of California recently, but the work Steve has put in for decades gives him an advantage when trying to navigate the effects of climate change. One tangible indicator of these changes that he mentioned is how ten years ago he stopped buying crop insurance for frost, and now has fire insurance to protect his investments. One thing about Steve is that he is always open to exploring new practices and adapting to changes, which in an uncertain future will undoubtedly help him continue to make incredible wines.

Today we are thrilled to offer some special wines that don't come around often. In addition to his iconic Linda Vista Chardonnay and classic Napa Cab (and don't forget the delicious Rosé!) we have some of his lesser known "passion projects," such as a beautiful Ribolla Gialla and Schioppettino, both fairly rare in California. There's also a juicy and vibrant still red Pinot Meunier and an old-vine Zinfandel that is light and fresh in a way that will turn your preconceived notions of Zin upside-down. Lastly he makes a very special sweet vermouth that is a must try, just the sixth batch in twelve years of making vermouth. These are singular and expressive wines that really showcase what Matthiasson is all about - purity, balance, and dedication to the big picture. Jeff DiLorenzo