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Many, many years ago, when visiting Paris, I would occasionally need a special bottle for dinner with friends. I would go to Jean-Baptiste Besse in the Rue de la Montagne Saint-Geneviève and describe the menu and my meagre budget. He would disappear into the cellars and come back with something wonderful - once it was a Jurançon that was indescribably delicious, another time a Burgundy from a much-maligned vintage (1980) that was, of course, sensational. Somewhat in the spirit of Monsieur Besse, we always throw a few bottles on the racks downstairs to sell later, so here's the 2023 offer of forgotten treasures, leftovers and held wines, in the hopes that you may find something special. (Don't worry, we always save some...)   -David Lillie