Nowack, Flavien Champagne 'Les Arpents Rouges' Extra Brut (2020)

Perhaps the most distinctive in a lineup of compelling Champagnes, Les Arpents Rouges is a single parcel wine comprised of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, grown in clay-sandstone soils toward the bottom of the slope in Vandières. The grapes are farmed organically, and aged in barrels without sulfur or ouillage (topping up). The prise de mousse is done with grape must and the wine is usually bottled without sulfur. The resulting wine is umami-rich in character and utterly fascinating.