Boudignon 2022 La Vigne Cendrée Savennières (Arrives 1/13)
This is a relatively new release for Thibaud. In 2011 he managed to rent a superb .5 ha isolated plot at the bottom on the Roche aux Moines on the Savennières side near the Châteu de Varennes. The land used to be planted but was taken over by wild vegetation. Thibaud cleaned it up, left it fallow and then replanted it in 2014 with the same care than the Clos de la Hutte and Frémine, using this time a Riparia rootstock as there is more clay with a vein of granite amidst the purple schists. For Thibaud, this is the most angular and “typical'' of his Savennières. And it’s true, right now and despite coming from younger vines, the wine has a real breadth with more tannic structure - for me a trademark of Savennières from this area. The wine does not see any new oak - to avoid bringing more unctuous sweetness - but is aged in Burgundy barrels and foudres. The nose has a lot of baking spices, gardenia, kumquat and has the less reductive notes. The palate is broader and richer, the acidity and tension hidden behind the velvety texture. Once again, aging would be a good idea to gain in definition. You can also enjoy today with hazelnut-crusted sweetbreads or zucchinis and goat cheese agnolotti, served with a chicken jus. -Pascaline Lepeltier