I wrote with incredible enthusiasm this past October when I was finally able to share the "entry level" wines from Bernhard Huber, and after months of anticipation, the 2023 Alte Reben (old vine) and Grosses Gewachs (GG/Grand Cru) bottlings have arrived! I can tell that many of you felt similar because I am constantly restocking the 2022 Briesgau and Malterdinger whites. If you have had them in the past few months, then you know that they are anything but entry level wines. For the first time since 2017, a more comprehensive lineup from Bernhard Huber is here but I fear that the wines won't last very long. We sadly have a very finite number of most of these wines and have included a bottle limit on the GG wines in order to help as many people as possible try these wines.

From the 2023 vintage, the white wines are incredibly concentrated. They are powerful wines with texture, complexity, and a bold, salty richness that also mantain beautifully balanced acidity. The wines have a bit of reduction, but that isn't the personality of the wine at all. Huber's wines remind me of Burgundy, but the acidity is what brings you back to Germany. The reds are stunning wines of true elegance and purity of fruit. The Malterdingen Spätburgunder is so pretty, with high-toned fruits like cranberry and pomegranate followed by great earth and minerality. This is a fresh, lifted, wine of refinement. The Alte Reben Spätburgunder is all the oldest vines of Bienenberg and it moves into a earthier, more silky and smooth style. It still has great notes of red cherry, and cranberry with great lift and purity on the finish.

Bernhard Huber and his wife Barbara took over the family's vines in 1987 and began estate bottling. Previous generations had sold grapes to the local cooperative. Once taking the realm, he limited yields and improved vineyard concentration. After passing away from cancer in 2014 his son Julian took over management of the vineyards and has only continued to improve the family's wines. New vineyards are planted with much higher density, vines are individually pruned, and farming has shifted to organic. When interviewed by the VDP Julian spoke to how his father Bernhard, "shaped me the most with his meticulousness, courage and passion for perfection in the vineyards and wine." He added that his philosophy is, "less is more. We want to concentrate on the essential and the given."
and that his next goal is, "to work even closer to nature and concentrate on the essentials." I think it is clear that the wines from Julian are just going to continue to shine. With their return to the U.S. market I think we are going to begin seeing a lot more of these wines, and for good reason.

Today alongside the new arrivals from Huber we are restocking the Breisgau and Malterdinger Chardonnay (again) as well as sharing some of the newest arrivals of German Pinot Noir to the shelves. We have new vintages of Stein Red Light, Shelter Winery, and Thörle! The Stein 2024 Red Light is picked from younger vines, macerated for 5-6 days with no stems, and barrel fermented and aged. This is a fun, joyful wine with notes of tart red cherry and cranberry. Bright, lifted, and light easy drinking. Another fantastic red from Uli Stein, that I must say is fantastic with a chill on it, especially on a hot day like today. The Shelter 2023 Spätburgunder has a beautiful nose of cranberry and tart cherry balanced with earthy tones. It opens up to be incredibly elegant with a freshness to carry and pair along with a wide array of foods. We also have the Thörle 2023 Spätburgunder Trocken - this vintage is even better than the last, incredible notes of high-toned fruits like red cherry along with florals. It is light, fresh, and beautifully lifted, a perfect wine for everyday drinking. Whether you are looking for some ultra-serious cellar-worthy reds or something to sip on with dinner next week, there is something here for all!

-Hanna Krilov Cohen