The Undying Magic of French Brandy

1/19/18 -

Alembic Still

The polar vortex/bomb cyclone/cold weather might be over, but winter sure isn't; and with a few more months of chilly temperatures, we're all looking for something to keep us cozy until spring buds. I've made French brandy my libation of choice. What's keeping your heart and spirit warm?

Though the history of French brandy is a long and storied one,  the current state of historic regions such as Cognac is dominated by conglomeration and consolidation. And though many of the cuvees put out by the four biggest brands (that dominate up to 90% of the world's Cognac market) vigorously market themselves using this illustrious tradition, the adulterated and anemic beverages contained within the glitzy bottles could not be further from the magnificent distillates that built the region's reputation. And Cognac is not alone in this plight. More and more pressure is put on small producers in Armagnac and Calvados to produce more, to produce quickly, and in doing so, to dilute standards.

We pride ourselves at Chambers Street Wines on seeking out the purest expressions of French brandy, made in traditional methods without additives or adulteration. No added coloring, no sugar, no boise (essentially liquid tannins, a substance commonly added to Cognac/Armagnac to make them appear more aged). We think of these spirits as true agricultural products, lovingly nurtured and raised by the people who produce them, from the raw material to the years of careful and patient maturation. Through years of tasting and the hard work done by the amazing people who built the spirits department at Chambers Street, we've amassed a collection of French brandy that we feel incredibly passionate about, made by farmers and artisans backed by generations of tradition. From the deep, rustic Calvados of the Camut brothers in Normandy, to pure and elegant Cognac from Guillon-Paintauraud and Paul Beau, and intense and savory Armagnac of Pellehaut and Ravignan, there is something for everyone to appreciate. We've even scored some of the elusive Laberdolive Armagnac bottles, usually reserved for the grand restaurants of France and rarely seen on these shores. We hope that you join us in our appreciation of French brandy, and have as much fun with these bottles as we've been having.

As a plus, we have a few copies left of By the Smoke and the Smell by Thad Vogler, spirits guru and owner of the bars Agricole and Trou Normand in San Francisco. In this wonderful travelogue, Thad recounts numerous experiences visiting the people and places that make some of our favorite spirits, including a few of the producers we've featured in the email. An engrossing read for anyone looking to learn more about the world of craft spirits.

-Oskar Kostecki

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