California Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and More!
4/25/2025
Alice Anderson of Åmevive in the Ibarra-Young Vineyard
California is one of the most diverse and varied winemaking regions in the world when it comes to the many different microclimates, soils and topography that all exist in close proximity. The wide range of terroir make for a perfect opportunity to grow just about anything, somewhere… and yet winemakers throughout the state have often turned to the tried-and-true moneymakers in Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Chardonnay. It’s an understandable predicament, but there are so many other varietals that can thrive here when given the chance. One of those is Grenache, which is perfectly suited for the occasional heat wave and dry spells that growers often have to deal with. Syrah is another grape that can do incredibly well especially in cooler, higher elevation sites. If you ask a California winemaker about Grenache or Syrah, many will smile and admit they have little bits planted here or there that they use to make some great wine that may or may not be widely distributed, however many don’t see either as a focal point. That’s not true of the winemakers featured today, who all understand the beauty that these Rhône varietals can achieve and have found some of the best sites for producing incredible wines, all of which give a nod toward their French counterparts while still firmly rooted in California tradition.
Sheep at Åmevive hard at work grazing
Åmevive is the exciting project of Alice Anderson and her partner Topher de Felice, who tend to the historic Ibarra-Young Vineyard in Los Olivos District AVA within Santa Barbara County. One of the first vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, it was planted by Charlotte Young in 1971 to Syrah and Mourvedre, with some Marsanne added in 1973. Bob Lindquist, one of the original “Rhône Rangers” added some Tempranillo and Graciano in the 90s, and the site has been farmed organically since 1993. Today Alice and Topher employ a beyond-organic approach that includes cover crops and grazing animals such as goats, sheep and chickens to fertilize the soil and promote a healthy ecosystem. We are lucky to have some incredible new releases from these original Syrah, Mourvedre and Marsanne vines including one of the more compelling wines I’ve tried this year, Peripherie, which is a co-fermented field blend of all three. While each of the single-varietal wines are special in their own way, Peripherie is a unique encapsulation of time and place that harkens back to the way wines were made centuries ago. It feels alive and fresh, much like the vineyard itself, with layers of complexity that can only be tied to the long history of these vines.
Trouble the Goat at Two Shepherds
Newfound Wines is another champion of great California Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, along with other varietals that Matt and Audra Naumann employ either from their own 40-acre property in El Dorado County and/or the select vineyards they work with across the state. Matt has worked in all aspects of the wine industry, from sales to consulting to winemaking, where he spent ten years managing the vineyards at Failla. His Gravels blend is a great entrypoint, however the Shake Ridge Ranch Syrah and Placida Vineyard Grenache are incredible wines that are classic and pure with long aging potential. Matt employs a minimalist approach in the cellar, coaxing the most out of these grapes and allowing the land to speak, which in this case has so much to say!
One of the people Matt worked with at Failla is John Lockwood, who started Enfield Wines along with Amy Seese in 2010. John works with a number of small sites across the state, cultivating personal relationships with growers and working side-by-side to ensure that these unique places are represented to their fullest through his wines. His Stained Glass Grenache is a stunning example of what sandy soil Grenache can achieve—bright and juicy with layers of depth and just enough tension to keep you going back for more. While this is meant to highlight the great potential of these Rhône varietals in California, I couldn’t help but to include Enfield’s outstanding Merk Vineyard Pinot Noir and Watson Ranch Chardonnay, as they were just too good to pass up! Lastly, just in time for summer is a light and juicy chillable red made of 100% Mourvedre from Two Shepherds, a small farm winery in Windsor, CA who began by focusing on Rhône varietals specifically and has branched out to include some other less common grapes including Trousseau and Pinot Meunier. Again the philosophy is hands-off in the cellar with utmost respect for the land, where they practice regenerative organic farming with the help of their trusty grazing animals. The name L’il Trouble refers to one of the goats on the farm, named Trouble (pictured above), who is said to live up to her name!
-Jeff DiLorenzo
