The Superb 2021 & 2022 Cornas "Patou" and 2022 Cornas "Henri" from Dumien Serrette!... and a Southern Rhone Special from Pierre André
[Thanks to Fernando Beteta for the use of his beautiful map!]
Since the 2014 vintage, we've been enjoying the rare and beautiful Cornas from Domaine Dumien Serrette - a superb but under-the-radar estate with about 2 hectares on the steep slope of "Patou" in the southern zone on granite soils. The vines date back to 1913, and to the 1920s, with a small percentage of young vines from the 1990s. In the 2022 vintage, the domain resumed 100% whole-cluster fermentations (50% in 2021) and the resulting wines were among the best in the appellation!
"2022 is an exciting vintage at Cornas" as just enough moisture and a temporary blockage of ripening brought wines with elegance and balance - although we love the 2021s as well for their relative lightness and finesse.
To give you an example of the superb quality of these wines, we refer to John Livingstone-Learmonth of "drinkrhone." He rated the top 2022 Cornas in 6 groups, beginning with the Allemand "Reynard" predictably alone at the top. (Try to find that one!) In the next group was Balthazar "Chaillot no SO2," Clape, Dumien Serrette "Henri," and Paris "Geynale." In the next group, Allemand "Chaillot," Balthazar "Chaillot," Dumien Serrette "Patou" and a few others. Good company!
[Gilbert and Nicolas Serrette with Michele from Bowler Wines]
The wines are made by the Dumien Serrette family in a tiny cellar that is under the town’s church. They make approximately 1000 cases total per year, not enough to live off of without the supplement of a full-time job. Nicolas learned how to make wine the old-fashioned way, from his father, Gilbert Serrette and Gilbert learned from his father-in-law, Henri Dumien. They own mostly old vines and farming is organic, but not certified. The Patou vineyard is very steep and Gilbert, in his retirement, but still helping out Nicolas, insists on tending the vines using a special cart he invented which pulls him slowly up the rows while he works.
The 2022 Cornas "Henri" is from 1913 Syrah on "Patou." 100% whole-cluster fermentation, aging in one-year old barrels, then 3 - 6 year-old barrels. 900 bottles were made in 2022. Drink over the next 25 to 30 years.
The 2022 Cornas "Patou Vieilles Vignes" is mostly from 1920s Syrah, 100% whole-cluster fermentation, aged in 2 -7 year-old 228 liter and 400 liter barrels, drink over the next 25 years.
Any lover of Gonon or Allemand should have these wines in their cellar!
Organic since 1980 (one of the first in the AOC) and Biodynamic since 1992. The red is 90% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Counoise, Muscadin and Picpoul. Some parcels are over 100 years old, with the average vine age around 65 years.
The wines of Jacqueline André are among the very greatest Châteauneuf-du-Papes - they possess the focus and soul of the truly great - when superb farming, old vines, terroir and winemaking come together to create works of art that transcend point scores with their purity, elegance and depth. We're proud to offer the 2020 and 2021 CDP Rouge from this wonderful domain!
