The Story of Baricchi and The Rare Nebbiolo Rosé Clone
6/4/26 -
Before an incredible trip to Italy in April, I was already a fan of Natale Simonetta's wines. To no surprise, spending the afternoon sipping, chatting, whistling, playing guitar (and getting by with a mix of English and Italian) brought an even deeper appreciation for his Barbaresco bottlings. (Photo above: Greg Rubin, Natale Simonetta & Marisa Licandro)
The magic in the bottle has much to do with the specific and rare clone of Nebbiolo called 'Nebbiolo Rosé'. In Ian D'Agata's book, Italy's Native Wine Grape Terroirs he says:
"Unfortunately, there is not much Nebbiolo Rosé left in the vineyards nowadays... which is a huge shame. Nebbiolo Rosé has pale red, dark pink berries (its wine is not much darker); it is an irregular producer, and its wines are less fruity and fleshy but more perfumed... almost every Barolo and Barbaresco estate [in the 80's and 90's] proceeded to rip out all the Nebbiolo Rosé in his or her vineyards. In those sorry times when graceful, nuanced wines were routinely penalized in favor of vulgar behemoths, Nebbiolo Rosé vines did not stand a chance; but gives wines of mesmerizing perfume and haunting balance, and those producers in whose vineyards it still grows are intelligently nurturing it."
Not only has Natale nurtured this rarity from old vines, but he also follows traditional methods, and practices long aging. Both of his Barbarescos are released as Riserva (well beyond minimum aging requirements). Even his Timorasso 'Ca Va Sans Dire' spends 10 years aging!
Baricchi, Cascina 2019 Barbaresco Rose delle Casasse Riserva
Natale's flagship wine, Barbaresco Rose delle Casasse Riserva is available today from the fantastic 2019 vintage. The grapes are sourced from a small 1.4 hectare parcel of Nebbiolo Rose planted in 1913! Aging is 5 years in large barrel, then 1 year in bottle before release. This wine delivers such haunting complexity with scents of eucalyptus, mint, cigar box, incense, and dried violets. The palate brings a delicate note of smoke and a salty, vibrant finish with savory tannins.
Baricchi, Cascina 2010 Barbaresco Riserva Quindicianni
The 2010 Barbaresco Riserva Quindicianni just arrived in NYC! It is bottled after 5 years of large barrel aging, just like the Rose della Casasse, but the Quindicianni then spends an extra ten years in bottle before release. For a 16-year-old wine, it is stunningly fresh and vibrant with stones, berries, menthol, fennel frond, and balsam. The age has brought a balance and centering to the wine, not yet moving towards tertiary flavors. It's in its peak drinking window where you benefit from both freshness and maturity, but this can also be cellared for another 5 years if you aren't ready to pop the cork.
Baricchi, Cascina 2021 Barbera d'Alba Riva della Coda
Barbera is one of my personal favorite red varieties! Cascina Baricchi's 2021 Barbera Riva della Coda shows a savory, sanguine profile with salted blackberries, iron, soy, and thyme. After a few hours of air, it opened up to a softer more integrated profile with plush blueberry, maple, and pine. I recommend decanting this or seeing how the bottle evolves over a day or two if you can resist!
I gleaned so much from our Baricchi visit, things that can only be learned from sharing a bottle in the living room of the grower. I can attest that these are wines made with love from good people and crafted in purposeful quantities. Whatever you grab from today's offer- be sure to share it with someone you care about.
-Marisa Licandro
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