The Incredible Champagnes of Vincent Cuillier
6/12/26 -
This is an arrival that I have been very impatiently waiting for. I first tried the Champagnes of Vincent Cuillier at a tasting in March of 2023, when his first wines landed in New York, and I have been a fan of these wines ever since. This release is probably his most exciting yet as it introduces three new cuvées!
If you are not yet familiar with Vincent's wines, his story is not unlike many other young winemakers in Champagne. In 2015 while overseeing his family's domaine, he blocked off what he believed to be his family's best vineyards. These plots are on the Massif de St Thierry just Northwest of the city of Reims: Mont Age in the village of Chenay, and Les Voyets in the village of Pouillon. A few years later in 2018 he took this a step further and began to experiment with new farming methods that focus on permaculture and agroforestry. Permaculture focuses on soil health and preservation of biodiversity where Vincent provides full cover crops, low-no tillage, and homemade compost and plant preparations. This in conjunction with agroforestry, the planting of trees throughout his vineyards, allows his vines to live in a complex and diversified ecosystem.
Clos Forestier: a regenerative sanctuary (Photo: Polaner Selections)
Fusion is a Blanc de Noirs blend of 60% old vine Pinot Noir with 40% Meunier that is from younger vines in multiple parcels within the Montagne de Reims. Young vines is a loose term here as Vincent uses some that are up to 40 years old. The juice is fermented in a mix of 500L French oak and stainless steel before aging for 36 months sur lattes. It is then disgorged with no dosage. This Champagne is fantastic! An amazing balance of power and elegance, there are notes of pear, crushed flowers, alongside a touch of herbaceousness. It has a slightly salty finish with freshness, great acid and structure.
Clos Forestier is a Blanc de Noir of entirely Pinot Noir coming from the single vineyard of Au dessus de Resilva in the Massif de Saint-Thierry (pictured above). He refers to this Clos as his regenerative sanctuary, surrounded by trees with sandy soils. This is his place to watch his vines thrive in biodiversity and create a pure expression of Pinot Noir. The juice is fermented in 500L demi-muids and spends 36 months sur lattes before getting disgorged with no dosage. The wine is incredibly elegant with intense purity of fruit. Notes of golden apple and pear with a strong mineral backbone. This is a special wine from Vincent.
The No. 2 Montagne de Reims Blanc de Blancs comes from vines in Villers-Marmery and is made from 100% Chardonnay. The soils here are comprised of clay over chalk and this is the only wine from Vincent that incorporates some purchased fruit. Vinified in tank with some barrel and aged for 36 months sur lattes before being disgorged with no dosage. This is a bright and lifted Blanc de Blancs with great tension and mouthwatering acidity. It has notes of lemon zest with floral notes and chalk. A stunner, and the only Blanc de Blancs in today's lineup.
Chemin des Rois is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir with 30% Chardonnay from the single parcel of Le Mont Age in the village of Chenay (near Merfy). The plot has sandy soils over limestone. It is aged in barrel for 12 months before spending 24-30 months sur lattes and disgorged with no dosage. My first notes written after trying the 2022 vintage were, "stunning - so complete!" There is a jump up from the other wines in body and density with amazing balance and purity of fruit.
Last, but certainly not least is L'Arbe, from the single parcel of Voyet in the village of Pouillon. This is the Cuillier family's most historic vineyard site, and the first that Vincent first separated off to explore natural viticulture. The name comes from the French word for Tree as a nod to his extensive agroforestry work in the vineyards. The wine is made from 100% Meunier and is fermented in stainless steel before spending 36 months sur lattes. It is disgorged without dosage. The resulting wine is mineral, salty, and fresh with notes of lemon peel and green apple. It is powerful with excellent concentration and great potential to age.
It is clear that we are just seeing the start of a really special young Champenois. I find that all of these wines are special and drink like they are much more expensive than they are. Quantities are limited from cuvee to cuvee so I would encourage you to snag some of these beauties while you can, you won’t regret it!
-Hanna Krilov Cohen
