The Cosmic Champagnes (and Coteaux Champenois) of Benoit Marguet
It may just be me but most of my favorite things in life are generally attainable. My favorite foods are foods that I can eat from time to time, my favorite cocktail is one that I can actually order at any self respecting bar. All this is to say that Selosse may be exquisite, but my favorite Champagne is Marguet. Though I am by no means an expert, and I have admittedly not been able to try every grower Champagne out there, I have been exposed to a vast amount of them over the past 12 years since I started paying attention, and to me the Champanges of Benoit Marguet have always stood out. There is a subtle creaminess on the palate, framed by precise acidity and complimented by a long, mineral finish. I have wondered how he attained such fantastic richness with the wines and was sure it was a question of batonnage, but I've asked Benoit and he doesn't practice batonnage, just barrel fermentation and long lees aging, which seem to clearly open up the wines and give them density and a very delicate oxidation. Still I don't think of Marguet's as an oxidative style; Laval will always be the reference point for me for that style, while Marguet is my reference for density and precision.
The domaine, Marguet Père et Fils, dates back to the 19th century, and Benoit's mother’s side of the family, the Bonneraves, began producing estate bottled Champagne in the early 20th century. Since taking over the family domain in 2005, Benoit has been an avid proponent of biodynamics, much to the shock and dismay of his father and others in the region. Often this is the story when a younger generation takes over and proposes these types of changes to the farming and winemaking philosophy, but without fail, the older generation eventually comes around when the biodiversity begins to return to the vineyards, and when the wines start to express levels of complexity and quality that are undeniably improved. Benoit did not just turn to biodynamics to improve the soil and the wines, however. When you meet him, you quickly get the sense that Benoit believes embracing biodynamics improves his life and the farming and the wines follow suit. He is a true believer in the power of biodynamics to change not only wine, but the vineyard and life for the better and is passionate about the relationship between the vignerons, the vines, and their wines. His vineyards are plowed by horse, fermentation is with native yeasts, his wines see little to no sulfur, and his viticulture shows clearly in the finished wines.
In Angers, France this past February (where the picture of myself and Benoit was taken), a colleague in the industry turned to me after tasting with Benoit, with a look of wonder and amazement. "Have you tried these wines?" she asked, almost out of breath from excitement. I replied: "Of course! Marguet is the best!" Later I realized that there are likely many people out there who are unfamiliar with these fantastic Champagnes, so I knew I had some proselytizing to do! While I am limited financially when it comes to Champagne consumption, when I do choose to indulge, I am never disappointed with a bottle from Benoit Marguet. Over the years I keep finding myself coming back to these wines, and we're pretty sure you will too once you try them!
-Eben Lillie
