Tension, Taste and Terroir at Trapet

3/3/20 -

As much as essense of Burgundy is terroir expression (location, location, location!), a countering and not nearly as prevalent narrative is grower over vintage (and sometimes vineyard). With a grape as sensitive to site and farming decisions as Pinot Noir, this is especially salient. And as articulately as the soil speaks through what's in the glass, the vigneron is the steward who gets it there. And where some growers are auteurs directing with pomp and flash (perhaps more specifically extraction and new oak sheen), others find the most honest expression in conscientious organic farming and sensible, non-interventionist cellar work. Domaine Trapet is one such grower. Blessed with superlative holdings of old vines in Gevrey-Chambertin including a whopping 1.85 hectares in Chambertin, Jean-Louis Trapet makes Burgundy that displays pure fruit, frank earthiness, and superlative finesse. Viticulture is organic and biodynamic (certified in 2009), fermentations are with native yeast with some stem inclusion, use of new oak is discreet and adjusted to vintage and designation. The resulting wines veer toward energy rather than heft and display aromatic complexity and sophistication married to layered earth and fruit flavors and well-knit structure. The wines are honest rather than overtly polished, deeply satisfying, and soulful. And for lovers of classical Burgundy, these are essential additions to the table and cellar?contemplative, delicious, and inspiring in their purity. John McIlwain