6/26/26 - 

I was recently encouraged to try the wines of Bodegas Gil Berzal by a colleague who had just returned from a visit to the estate. In a world of so much hype and overstimulation, it’s easy to lose track of all of the things people say you have to try. Be it movies, wines, or “New York’s best burger,” I admit to falling into the habit of these ‘recs’ going in one ear and out the other (though I have taken the bait on the burger more than once). In this case, however, when it was explained to me that the bodega was making serious, biodynamic, single-vineyard Rioja from extremely old vines in Rioja Alavesa, my interest was piqued and I decided to reach out to our distributor to set up a tasting. Despite getting the rundown, I was still caught off guard; the wines were genuinely world-class, and with an exactitude as well as an unpretentious, neo-classical sort of ethos that I immediately fell for.

Saul and Benjamin represent their family’s 5th generation of vignerons. Saul is often described as the winemaker and Benjamin as the businessman, although the distinction may be less rigid than those titles suggest. As recently as 2024, they officially abandoned the Rioja D.O, notably following in the footsteps of their prestigious fellow Laguardia producer, Artadi. Their departure stems from a contradiction between the Rioja classification hierarchy and the estate’s approach, which is focused around single-vineyard expressions as well as a less dogmatic approach to barrel aging. Aside from terroir, what connects all of their wines is a consistent approach in the cellar that stands in contrast to mainstream Rioja. Just about every cuvee is made from the free-run juice of each site, making for a gentle extraction, which is exceedingly rare in Rioja. Moreover, native yeast fermentations in concrete and a preference for less extreme aging in neutral French oak distinguish the bodega from nearly all of their regional peers.

The Gil Berzal wines come from predominantly clay and limestone soils from high-elevation plots in the foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range. They farm roughly 18 hectares of co-planted plots of very old vines passed down to them through generations, and they do so following biodynamic and organic practices. With the exception of the three entry-level wines, all wines are single-vineyard expressions, which Saul and Benjamin identify as “premier” and “grand crus.” The Recoveco wines are “premier crus” while Glorya, Alma Pura, and La Vejera are considered “grand crus.” The Buscando is a zero-sulfur field blend from a tiny, very unique parcel (more notes in the item descriptions!). There are a few producers who employ low-intervention approaches in Rioja, but the fine tannin, depth of fruit and high acidity in these wines are unique products of this fantastic terroir. It’s a shame to think of all of the beautiful fruit from the region that’s still being turned into vanilla from the overaggressive use of new American oak. Though the wines may be generally more elegant, perfumed, and light in color compared to your run of the mill Riojas, they are still structured, dense and rich. In fact, that’s ultimately part of why they left the Rioja D.O: why turn wines like these into Gran Reservas when it is precisely their freshness and elegance that make them so beautiful? 

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Father and son Isaac and Manuel (pictured above) began bottling wines under the label ‘Cantalapiedra Viticultores’ in 2014, although their family’s viticultural history dates back generations. As a project that is geared towards terroir (more specifically, that of the Rueda D.O) the Cantalapiedra wines are standouts in particular, not just because of all of the conventionally produced, dull wine that surrounds them, but for their spoil of old vineyards, some of them own-rooted, pre-phylloxera, and dating as far back as 150 years ago. Through great care for these vines as well as expertise in the cellar, they have earned a reputation beyond Castilla y Leon and beyond Spain. As far as style goes, Chablis and the Loire can come to mind, and yet the wines are undeniably unique and true to place at their core.

Cantalapiedra’s style is clearly informed by a deep knowledge and great taste in wine. The reduction found in La Otea, the creaminess of the Chiviritero, and the salinity of the Espejo are all gentle indicators that Manuel knows his stuff. It is through this understanding that he is able to deliver the unique expressions of his pre-phylloxera vines for which he’s become known. What’s funny, ironic, and interesting to me is that after all these years of Rueda pushing towards a more international style of winemaking, the Cantalapiedras have successfully taken inspiration from elsewhere to make terroir driven wines that ultimately celebrate their home turf. 

In terms of farming, Manuel is not only committed to organics but also employs biodynamic practices in the vineyard. Minimal use of sulfur, native yeast fermentation, no fining or filtration, and zero additives of any kind are guiding principles in the cellar. Fermentation and aging take place in stainless steel and/or barrel, depending on the wine. These are wines of real precision, and they’ve only become more compelling with each vintage. It’s a pleasure to bring them in to share with you today.

-Nick Douglas

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