New Arrivals from California: Bedrock, Haarmeyer, and Dunn!
4/4/2025
With winter shifting into spring, and then back into winter again, I can’t think of a better way to warm our cold and weary souls than to welcome some new arrivals from the great state of California! Of particular note are the outstanding 2023 Heritage wines from Bedrock. 2023 was by many accounts a monumental vintage in Sonoma and the surrounding areas, described by some as a potentially once-in-a-generation type vintage with its long, cool growing season that resulted in mature, concentrated grapes that retained acidity and produced wines with moderate alcohol levels. This longer hang-time can add layers of complexity and density to the wines, which becomes particularly compelling with single-vineyard bottlings like these.
[Bedrock's Evangelho Vineyard in Contra Costa County]
For the un-initiated, Bedrock’s Heritage wines each come from historic vineyards consisting of some of the oldest vines in California. Winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson and his longtime friend and partner Chris Cottrell are masters at finding, rehabilitating, and coaxing some amazing fruit from these sites, which are often co-planted with a variety of grapes and have their own distinct personality. At a recent visit Chris showed us a detailed map of the Evangelho vineyard, which Morgan has thoroughly plotted out essentially vine by vine. You can see some areas with concentrations of Zinfandel, Carignane, Mataro (Mourvedre), Alicante, Palomino and others, but throughout many parts of the vineyard all of these grapes grow side by side. This results in wines that speak less of a particular grape and more of the unique place from which they come, which in Evangelho’s case is unlike anywhere else in the world. For an in-depth look at the vineyards you can find more info on their website. Beyond the incredible Heritage wines they make a killer Old Vine Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, along with one of my favorite California Sauvignon Blancs and the endlessly refreshing Ode to Lulu Rosé.
[Craig and Alex Haarmeyer in the cellar]
We also have an exciting new drop from Craig Haarmeyer, who, much like many of us, is a proud Chenin Blanc devotee and makes some of the best Chenin from California or anywhere. Inspired by the great wines of the Loire, in particular Savennières, Craig is able to convey all of the grape’s hallmark characteristics – acidity, minerality, texture – through the lens of California terroir. Working with six organically farmed vineyard sites across the Sacramento River Delta, eastern Lodi and the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, Craig takes a hands-off approach in the cellar and truly lets the grapes and the vineyards speak for themselves. For lovers of Loire Chenin (I know there are at least a few of you out there!) these hit all the right notes and can be enjoyed young but will continue to develop over time. Haarmeyer also makes a fascinating Riesling from old vines at Wirz Vineyard and a light and juicy semi-carbonic Nebbiolo, perfect for the upcoming cookout season!
[Vines at Dunn Vineyards]
Lastly we have the 2021s from Dunn, both their Napa Cab and Howell Mountain Cab. Dunn needs no introduction, as a benchmark producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa going back to the late 70s. These wines are classic, pure, and powerful, and the 2021s are just starting to stretch their legs with a long and bright future ahead. Tasting the 2021 Howell Mountain recently showed the balance of finesse and power of this vintage, where yields were lower than average but quality is good. These are approachable now with some air, but will be highly rewarding over the next 10-20 years and beyond--something to look forward to for those with patience!
-Jeff DiLorenzo
